Battery Jumping

Jenn

Ranger
A couple days ago the battery on my Outback gave up all pretense of showing up for work. I had taken it to Farm and Fleet and they tested it and it showed up as OK but with the cold and age we could not jump it with my independent charger or another vehicle.

My independent charger is about 13 years old and I want to replace it. Can anyone recommend a particular brand that's easy to use and does the job and small enough to carry all the time?

Thanks!
 
…but with the cold and age we could not jump it with my independent charger or another vehicle.
That’s odd that you couldn’t jump it from another vehicle. That should work even with your batt dead dead dead. It may be worth trying to figure that out to make sure there isn’t a problem with gear or setup that might prevent a jump start in the future.
 
That’s odd that you couldn’t jump it from another vehicle. That should work even with your batt dead dead dead. It may be worth trying to figure that out to make sure there isn’t a problem with gear or setup that might prevent a jump start in the future.
I agree. I dont think I'm the best at attaching the cables. I watch videos and think I have it right but I think I dont. I have to go back to Farm and Fleet and will ask someone to show me what is right. Thanks.
 
I agree. I dont think I'm the best at attaching the cables. I watch videos and think I have it right but I think I dont. I have to go back to Farm and Fleet and will ask someone to show me what is right. Thanks.
Good idea.
FWIW The most likely reason a jump from another vehicle with a good battery shouldn't work would be a bad connection, assuming the starter is working normally. A bad connection most likely will be where your battery cables are connected to the battery posts, and can just be that the posts and or cable end is dirty and not allowing a good connection. A cable/ post cleaner is readily available at any auto parts store, and big box stores automotive department https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-B...768660416&sprefix=battery+post,aps,287&sr=8-3
It may also be the reason your battery went dead to begin with. Once a battery goes dead, it won't likely ever be as good as it was, and will probably need replacement before too long. When it is replaced is a good time to use that cleaner tool on the posts and cable ends, and to protect the cable/post connection with either those green and red felt washers put on the posts before the cable goes on, or a spray on protective coating made for that purpose. There are other reasons for failure too, like the alternator, or starter, and their connections, but the battery connections are far more likely.
 
…The most likely reason a jump from another vehicle with a good battery shouldn't work would be a bad connection, assuming the starter is working normally. A bad connection most likely will be where your battery cables are connected to the battery posts, and can just be that the posts and or cable end is dirty and not allowing a good connection. A cable/ post cleaner is readily available at any auto parts store, and big box stores automotive department ...
This is super important! The combo of electrical current and the dissimilar metals of the battery posts and the car’s cable clamps can produce a corrosive residue, which looks like a whitish-greenish-bluish gritty powder.

That does NOT conduct electricity, it’s an insulator that can grow between the post and clamp, messing with the charging from the alternator that the battery should be receiving. So, your battery gradually discharges over a long period, never getting a full charge.

When you start the car the starter demands a high current flow from the battery, which punches through the partial insulation created by the corrosion. Until it can’t, because the battery hasn’t been fully charged for a while, and can no longer supply the high current needed.

So, @dustinp’s point: the cleaner tool should be used to take the battery posts and the inside of the clamps down to bare metal. Which is actually pretty easy!

Then, carefully clean all the residue from all surfaces; somehow the residue is a starting point for more corrosion. Carefully because the residue is highly acidic. Don’t blow it off, don’t get it in your eyes. Usually I wear gloves. It’s highly soluble in water, so a wet paper towel can do the trick.

Battery post corrosion should be removed whenever you notice it, Farm and Fleet should have done it when installing the new battery.

One more tip: don’t connect the battery posts with a wrench or screwdriver or you’ll get a big surprise! I actually made this mistake in the tight confines of the CI battery compartment a few years back. Apparently I’d forgotten some of the lessons learned at my daddy’s knee… fortunately I didn’t kill the battery, but that’s another story.
 
This is super important! The combo of electrical current and the dissimilar metals of the battery posts and the car’s cable clamps can produce a corrosive residue, which looks like a whitish-greenish-bluish gritty powder.

That does NOT conduct electricity, it’s an insulator that can grow between the post and clamp, messing with the charging from the alternator that the battery should be receiving. So, your battery gradually discharges over a long period, never getting a full charge.

When you start the car the starter demands a high current flow from the battery, which punches through the partial insulation created by the corrosion. Until it can’t, because the battery hasn’t been fully charged for a while, and can no longer supply the high current needed.

So, @dustinp’s point: the cleaner tool should be used to take the battery posts and the inside of the clamps down to bare metal. Which is actually pretty easy!

Then, carefully clean all the residue from all surfaces; somehow the residue is a starting point for more corrosion. Carefully because the residue is highly acidic. Don’t blow it off, don’t get it in your eyes. Usually I wear gloves. It’s highly soluble in water, so a wet paper towel can do the trick.

Battery post corrosion should be removed whenever you notice it, Farm and Fleet should have done it when installing the new battery.

One more tip: don’t connect the battery posts with a wrench or screwdriver or you’ll get a big surprise! I actually made this mistake in the tight confines of the CI battery compartment a few years back. Apparently I’d forgotten some of the lessons learned at my daddy’s knee… fortunately I didn’t kill the battery, but that’s another story.
Yep. I have the corrosion issue going on.

Farm and fleet did not install the current battery but they did test the current battery in the parking lot. They said it was ok, 'good' was his word, but with the cold and probably corrosion it still died.
 
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