Just packing for our first long trip; 2 weeks. Wondering if and how others use there fridge? We are wanting to pack fridge / freezer goods and keep for the duration or while we consume. Do I use the 12VDC or 120VAC also have that cigarette do daddy lol. Haven't downloaded the manual yet so apologize for the quick question.
On another note we have the solar option and curious how much this may drain the system. I am just trying to get a good gauge on how to properly use everything. Unless it's 30*F at night my wife will have the fan running regardless.
I have the same fridge, and it works very well. I run my exclusively from 12 volts, though I keep the temperature set closer to the mid-30s (below 40). My onboard battery is an 86Ah AGM, so I can be 'dry' for 2 days before I am looking for power. That, for me, 99 times out of 100 will be from a camp site power pole (meaning I never need to as I plug in immediately) If you are freezing, it will use more power.
The reason I run exclusively from 12 volt is that the power poles at almost every campground are unpredictable --- most campgrounds were built it he 1950 and 60s (we stay exclusively at state parks) and are not sized to have "full" weekends with RV's with Air Conditioning, Microwaves, Hair Dryers, water heaters, air fryers etc. They were sized mostly for a few lights, and perhaps a fan or two. They have been retrofitted, but most of those retrofits were for a 30 amp rig, that might have a single AC. Now, I'll see 2 AC's routinely, and I've even started to see 3 ACs. Or, I'll see a Tesla plugged in instead of an RV, which pull the full capacity of the pole for the whole charging cycle of the vehicle.
This all means that the voltage at the pole can drop down significantly, and can even start to damage sensitive electronics. My domestic is the single most expensive accessory I have, I want to keep it isolated from "120" volts.
On really hot days 3 things will matter the most to the CFF:
1 -- Keep it out of direct sun
2 -- Keep the airflow, the fridge needs to breathe.
3 -- When traveling on hot days, its a good idea t put the fridge inside the tow vehicle, using a colman style ice chest to hold the stove in place in the galley.
I love my CFF35 --- I would suggest buying a replacement thermistor before you need it. There's a couple threads in this forum where replacing that part has been discussed. I can tell you when I got mine SUMMIT racing sells them for the ARB, they also work on the Dometics.
I have found this to be the single most failure-prone component in the fridge. I have a CFF35 and an ARB fridge (both are based on similar Danfoss compressors/controllers) --- So far, I've replaced both thermistors once. I replaced the thermistor in my previously owned CF35 twice. Its super easy and just needs a screwdriver to do...but it sucks when you're out and suddenly your freezer/fridge is 50 degrees, or, its running continuously and is totally iced up, which can damage the compressor --- which is why I have a CFF35 now instead of a CF35.
Invest in a good in-fridge thermometer. Mine is electronic and has "min/max/current" temperatures. These small fridges do have temperature swings that are larger than a large home chest.
IF you charge with a solar panel, have 200 watts and on a sunny day, my house battery is full in a few hours (2-4) and I'm a power hog. I have yet to fully quantify that -- Just enough to say it works well.
The last came from Summit Racing. I can look up the part number if you need it. Theirs was the best price, especially so when you factor in shipping...The RV places rook ya.