Electric brakes: How effective on a 560?

What is the expected effectiveness in electric brakes for a 560?

Most important: What are the indicators of effective 560 trailer braking?
Our used 560's electric brakes (the magnet with shoe system)are not strong enough to hold the trailer in place from a minimal pull by our Tacoma v/6 truck. This is when the Prodigy controller's mechanical lever is moved fully to the left and the electrical setting is 13. A new magnet was installed prior and the system was then declared fully operational by an RV enter.The RV center technician also said level 13 volts was needed to get any appreciable braking response.

The Prodigy set-up instruction declares: First "lock the trailer's brakes" as a starting point for adjustment using level 6. This appears not to be the baseline for our trailer's 2,000 lb. rated braking system. There is virtually no braking at 6.
How much braking should be expected by the trailer's system? Is there a mechanical problem described here?
Thanks for any input.
Wendell

 

Wendell the way I check is on a level surface speed ip to a walking speed, put the transmission in neutral and apply the brake on the brake controller. You should feel the rig slow down. Also set the Prodigy as high as it will go. When you do the test the brakes shouldn't lock. If they do the back off the value.

When I picked up my 560 Cary said set my built in GMC as high as it would go so I assume the same would hold true with the Prodigy.

 

Gary-
Thank you for your input. Am I accurate the effect of the trailer's brakes is one of "supplementing" or "augmenting" the truck brakes. In short, there is some slowing down from the trailer but nothing of strength. Yes, I know, I'm stuck on the language! I did the test you suggested. At best, the trailer did show the effect of the brakes -- much like a bicycle brake applied to slow down. I had the Prodigy set at the highest level and the trailer did show the brakes were on but not enough to actually stop the trailer.

Related is an opinion from the RV center...

I did get an opinion from the RV repair center that changing the axle from the 2000 lb. model to a higher load rate, larger brakes -- shoes and magnets --would give the trailer actual stopping power. An estimate was about $700 for the parts and installation. The Tacoma does not have the best braking compared to the Tundra or your GMC. I'll give the current setup a try as we travel in Utah on vacation.

If you have any further ways to describe the current effects of the system, please give me another try! My wife has helped with the "tests" in the driveway and is showing some anxiety and lots of questions about the brakes. My assurances that we have been stopping prior to them working (there was a burned out magnet and repaired) so working, they are an additive. That assurance appears to help.

Best,
Wendell

 

Wendell,

I don't think the trailer brakes are meant to stop the TV on their own. They are there to make sure the trailer doesn't push the TV when stopping. So long as there is any pull on the TV, it means that the trailer is doing it's part to stop - then your TV should have no problem stopping itself just like it does without a trailer.

 

Wendell, Evan is spot on. I had a heavier dual axle trailer and it would slowly bring the car to a halt but it was 5000 lb axles with brakes to match.

 

Hi Wendell:

I tow with an SUV that weighs about 4,800 pounds. When I do the test described by Gary (combined rig up to walking speed, put in neutral, apply the trailer brakes at maximum grabbing power) I also get an initial lurch, a noticeable slowing down of the combined rig - but it could easily take a while to stop using only trailer brakes.

If I am driving slow speeds like in a parking lot and have the brake controller set to the maximum setting and then tap on my tow vehicle brakes, the trailer brakes will grab enough to be annoying - meaning they make me lurch and slow down much more suddenly and faster than expected or necessary.

Therefore, I tend to dial my trailer brakes down or even off when in a parking lot, dial it up more when on back roads, and then crank it up even further on the freeway just in case I have to jam on the brakes at 70mph.

None of this is any technical advice - but its just what I have found to work for me.