Replacing gas lines, how to DIY?

T

TheSongDogHouse

Ranger
Got some old sketchy line segments to maybe need replacing...while handling home honeydo's I can fit this in bit by bit, if tools and process is at basic neanderthal level of my skillz...

Can take to an RV shop but rather DIY if anyone has done so and advice to share...

Thoughts?
 
I haven't looked at how CI runs its lines or what it uses underneath. Copper tube and flare fitting are common with the 'big rig' guys, as is rubber tube for the longer runs. My best advice is to know before you start, and if you aren't sure, don't. If you do, Make absolutely sure you soap-test every single fitting. The tiniest of leaks can be a disaster. This is probably my single biggest fear now.

I had an RV fridge that dumped its ammonia, and I needed to replace the fridge _or_ have a new cooling unit installed. The cooling unit was 1/2 the price of a fridge...easy decision. The company that did the installation failed to do that soap test and missed a small leak. THey 'made it right' in the end, but it was a nearly disastrous situation.

After they replaced the fridge, I drop back to my camp site. I unplugged shore power and walked around the rig. In this process, something happened that made me need to reset a break or something, and that caused the propane spark igniter to fire. I figure the correct gas/air mixture didn't form because the rig was on the road moving --- but this leak existed while driving. Regardless, after stopping the correct combination of 'stars' aligned and 'spark' ignition system sparked, igniting not only the burner but a pool of propane that accumulated.

It burned every wire behind the fridge, which then toasted the wood. I first smelled plastic burning, then saw the billowing smoke. I ran around, turning off the propane, and grabbed an extinguisher where I distinctly remember the smell of the "wood burning" set I used as a kid as
I ripped off the exterior cover access panel, and blasted the extinguisher 'up' the wall. I was incredibly lucky. All of the 12 volt wires all destroyed, and toasted wood framing and all the fridge electronics were fried. But I was literally seconds away from burning my rig to the ground. Had this happened while I was driving....or I wasn't outside when it started...I am so fortunate. I now check my propane tank/valve for leaks just about every time I walk past my trailer now.

If you aren't sure, hire it done, and check their work. A bottle of soapy water sprayed on every joint, looking for small bubbles that 'grow' or 'percolate' indicates a leak, make a point of checking the lines every time touch the tank. If you do it yourself, double check your work then check it again. Forunately, the CI doesn't have an igniter circuit anywhere (unless you have the furnace) so your risk is less than a rig with water heaters, furnaces, fridges. But propane is full of profound amounts of energy. If that genie gets loose -- its not a good day.

I'm not trying to scare you, or tell you you can't do it --- I fix my own stuff all the time, and this is one area that is particularly 'exciting' if a mistake is made.
 
Note that when doing gas fittings there is a special teflon tape to use - it is yellow where the stuff for water is white. If you use brush on dope, again there is special stuff that is for gas. Also, if it is a flare fitting, no sealing tape/goop, it is assembled dry.

A small leak in a water line, things get wet. In a gas line things go boom.
 
Van_and_Terri said:
Thanks for sharing. I bought a portable propane detector which I use on our Escape 21C beyond the visual and soap detection inspection.
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I've got those too :) But the soap detection is still part of my routine.

I also bought an inline propane tank gauge, designed as a grill 'gas gauge' It attaches to the tank output and then the grill (or camper) attaches to it. You've seen 'em.

I will 'charge' or fill the gas lines and close the valve on the tank. Effectively pressuring the gas lines without a tank to keep them pressurized in the event of a leak. Every time I walk past it, I look at the gas level and note its level. I'll see fluctuation based on temperature variance, and maybe even some leaking -- but we're talking minute amounts over weeks to months, surely it would pass an industry standard manometer test

If there is a drop that concerns me, I check with soapy water and/or a gas detector and never had a leak that I could find. But I did have it drop to zero in a few hours -- and found a leak because of a lose fitting at the tank. I'm not worried, and remember I am paranoid about this now.
 
Not sure what year but mine runs down inside a pipe under the camper to the rear. I havent pulled the rear apart but there should be a t going to the stove and the external hookup.
Its not all that hard. I would see if you can access it to the t, unscrew it there and pull it through.
As mentioned yellow teflon tape or gas specific pipe dope. Propane is pretty low pressure. I have a cheap chinese gas sniffer that works great ( picks up the gas from a bic lighter) and i also use soapy water. If you have a gas furnace there may be another connection.
 
Dan sloan said:
Not sure what year but mine runs down inside a pipe under the camper to the rear. I havent pulled the rear apart but there should be a t going to the stove and the external hookup.
Its not all that hard. I would see if you can access it to the t, unscrew it there and pull it through.
As mentioned yellow teflon tape or gas specific pipe dope. Propane is pretty low pressure. I have a cheap chinese gas sniffer that works great ( picks up the gas from a bic lighter) and i also use soapy water. If you have a gas furnace there may be another connection.
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I did go in that area, it is to the left of the sink and very hard to get there. I’d call it special tools and methods, not least of which is getting out the sink!
 
SethB said:
I did go in that area, it is to the left of the sink and very hard to get there. I’d call it special tools and methods, not least of which is getting out the sink!
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Can you get in through the access door on the outside? ( where the water and gas hookups are)
If youre near wisconsin you could bring it in to the crew at camp inn, i bought mine used with some inferior repairs , they fixed it all up fast and reasonably priced too.

Is the sink held in like houshold sinks? Small levers with screws around the perimeter? If so a long screw driver is all you need
 

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Dan sloan said:
Can you get in through the access door on the outside? ( where the water and gas hookups are)…
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Removing the utilities connections box would only give you access to the junctions between it and the sink. Because there’s only an inch of depth there, just enough for 90-deg elbows, you don’t have space to check or replace the gas line, only that last quick-connect fitting.
Dan sloan said:
Is the sink held in like houshold sinks? Small levers with screws around the perimeter? If so a long screw driver is all you need
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No, it’s adhered to the countertop with hard-to-remove magic rv assembly goop.
Dan sloan said:
If youre near wisconsin you could bring it in to the crew at camp inn, i bought mine used with some inferior repairs , they fixed it all up fast and reasonably priced too.
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Probably the best way to get it done. Ah the OP is far away from CI in California. Like me in Oregon. When you have to get ‘er done you figure out a way.

I think the long run from the propane tank terminates nearer the floor, you might be able to reach it if you remove the bulkhead in the bin. A terribly awkward place to work… if it’s even possible to reach what you need to.
 
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Thanks, guys. I "still" haven't done anything as we've been busy on other things...and it wasn't a leak, if any...yet.
Fingers crossed and investing in the gas detector thingy -
so far its just me looking at those lines and fittings and thinking ahead.

Btw:Picking brains here, is an invaluable part of the CI: access to the literal decades archives of helpful wisdom, here.

So thanks again. I realllyyy appreciate the advice, on "how to" to DIY if I have to...
 
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Dan sloan said:
Got it. So i guess a heat gun and putty knife is the only way.
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Well, this is what I’ve been reluctant to say. That method is how it’s done, after carefully removing the screw in the sink drain. Reluctant because it involves using heat near the gas lines and wood cabinets. In my opinion the basic safety practices are to completely exhaust all gas from both sides of the line (stove and outlet), and never use open flame as a heat source. Do so at your own risk, you don’t want to make a mistake with gas distribution.
 
I was remembering that we’ve not discussed propane much here, and went looking for this thread
Steve and Karen

Thread 'Mr Heater Buddy Connection To Aux Propane Port?'

Has anyone had trouble running a Buddy heater directly off the side LP quick-connect using CI's LP Accessory Hose? My pilot light goes out after 15 seconds and it won't come back on, no longer how long I hold down the control knob.

I'm not using Mr Heater's recommended proprietary direct-to-tank connection hose #F273701 or their fuel filter, yet. I just wanted to try it connected to the trailer with the CI hose first. The heater works as it should with the 1 lb bottles.

There is an internal regulator inside the heater, which would supposedly make any regulator on any hose...
  • Like
which was the beginning of my learning.

I guess you could call that thread “pitfalls of matching appliances and connectors to your CI’s gas outlet.”
 
SethB said:
I was remembering that we’ve not discussed propane much here, and went looking for this thread
Steve and Karen

Thread 'Mr Heater Buddy Connection To Aux Propane Port?'

Has anyone had trouble running a Buddy heater directly off the side LP quick-connect using CI's LP Accessory Hose? My pilot light goes out after 15 seconds and it won't come back on, no longer how long I hold down the control knob.

I'm not using Mr Heater's recommended proprietary direct-to-tank connection hose #F273701 or their fuel filter, yet. I just wanted to try it connected to the trailer with the CI hose first. The heater works as it should with the 1 lb bottles.

There is an internal regulator inside the heater, which would supposedly make any regulator on any hose...
  • Like
which was the beginning of my learning.

I guess you could call that thread “pitfalls of matching appliances and connectors to your CI’s gas outlet.”
Click to expand...
Thats an epic thread...
 
Randy said:
The sink is fairly easy to remove. Just run a heat gun along the edges which softens the sikaflex.
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I'm glad that you found it straightforward, more power to you @Randy. I think of myself as a multi skilled person with tools and methods, but there's always something new; I found it challenging to get the whole thing hot enough (but not too hot!) all at the same time to pry it out. Then sourcing the specific recommended Sikaflex product for the reinstall was difficult both in my area and online. Perhaps that was during lockdown...
 
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