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Tables Can A Rotated Side Table Become An Official Camp Inn Option?

L

Les Izmore

Junior Ranger
Back in 2016, we stopped at the factory for service. While there, we mentioned to Craig about how our dog had gotten wrapped around the leg of our side table, causing it and our Dometic to go crashing to the ground when a squirrel happened by. He devised a small bracket made of angle iron that he bolted to our trailer frame. With it and a few adjustments, it turned the table leg into a strut that didn't need to touch the ground: our problem was solved. There were a number of considerations to using this configuration, including the need to make a few minor modifications. To read more about that, see Strut-supported (dog Proof) Side Table We used this configuration continuously for more than three years with absolutely no problems!

In October I called Craig and we talked a bit about whether it would be possible to rotate the table 90 degrees clockwise, so that it sits parallel to the cabin wall, rather than perpendicular to it. Doing so overcomes a shortcoming of the original design. In that design, the table and strut form a 30-60-90 degree right triangle. If a lot of weight, like someone sitting or standing on the table, was placed on the outer edge of that triangle, it would place a huge lateral load on the cabin wall. Perhaps even enough to cause the wall the fail, or at the very least for the table mount screws to be pulled out of the wall. This was partly addressed in the original configuration by replacing the table mount screws with bolts that go completely through the wall. It wasn't possible to do this conversion using our factory table, as there are t-bolts embedded in the table surface for the mounting and leg brackets. Mounting the leg bracket to the underside of the factory table with just screws would have been an invitation to disaster, so we made a new table top of wood, as described later.

In the new design, the table and strut form a 45-45-90 degree triangle, so that any weight at the outside edge of the table gets transferred equally to the cabin wall and the support bracket mounted on the camper frame. It should be a design far less prone to problems of abuse.

The parallel design puts the table and refrigerator closer to the galley. This makes it safer to transfer the Dometic to and from the table (since the distance is shorter and you don't need to swing out around the galley wall), and there is virtually no way to get the power cable wrapped around the bumper. It also makes it a lot easier to see what is inside the Dometic.

We had planned on testing this configuration on the road for a month, but events conspired to limit our test to just 10 days. It lived up to all of our expectations, and we have no doubts that the design is far less prone to failure than the leg-to-the-ground configuration. Hopefully, Craig and Cary will consider making this an official option, particularly for us folks who travel with our pets.

To test this configuration, rather than invest a lot of money, we utilized some particle board from the demolition of our kitchen pantry, which we finished with some extra exterior latex house paint. All the hardware was transferred from our original factory table. Here are the pictures (sorry for the links, but life is too short for me to figure out [once again] how to embed these things):

The strut frame bracket, which utilizes the same bolts that attach the bumper to the frame:
IMG_20201012_153304641 (1) | Unofficial Camp-Inn Forum

A photo showing how the lower part of the table leg was shortened for this configuration:
IMG_20201013_091108602 (1) | Unofficial Camp-Inn Forum

An underside view of the new table configuration:
IMG_20201014_100327015 (1) | Unofficial Camp-Inn Forum

The strut resting on the frame bracket:
IMG_20201116_150113102 | Unofficial Camp-Inn Forum

Access to the Dometic:
IMG_20201116_152047250 | Unofficial Camp-Inn Forum

Rear view of new table configuration:
IMG_20201118_131336024 | Unofficial Camp-Inn Forum

Outboard side view of new table configuration:
IMG_20201118_131436320 | Unofficial Camp-Inn Forum

Our plan is to now make a permanent version of this configuration, using 11-ply marine grade plywood for the table top, finished with an appropriate exterior marine grade varnish. The wood top is lighter than the factory version and should hold up for years.
img_20201012_153304641-1.1903
 

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Looks good.

I like the fact that the table does not stick out so far from the side.
 
I too like the way the rotation of the long and short sides fit the trailer. Is this the same table that came with the CampInn? And does it stow in the galley when travelling? Somehow the table in the photos does not look like the one that came with my 360 Model purchased new in 2015. I don't have a Dometic, but still use the Coleman ice express.
 
Hi Old_Prospector!

As explained in the post, the table top in the photos is simply a piece of particle board shelving from our old pantry that has been painted with exterior latex house paint. I opted to do that for a quick and simple proof of concept - there would have been no sense in investing time and money in a fancier-looking tabletop if for some reason it had not worked as planned. Yes, it does stow on top of the Dometic/cooler in the galley. The hardware shown on the bottom of the table is the factory hardware.

I'm glad I didn't go to the effort of radiusing the corners, like in the factory table. It's simpler and personally I prefer the way it looks. Though I may change my opinion about that the first time I accidentally bump into one of those sharp corners. ;-)
 
Les Izmore said:
Hi Old_Prospector!

As explained in the post, the table top in the photos is simply a piece of particle board shelving from our old pantry that has been painted with exterior latex house paint. I opted to do that for a quick and simple proof of concept - there would have been no sense in investing time and money in a fancier-looking tabletop if for some reason it had not worked as planned. Yes, it does stow on top of the Dometic/cooler in the galley. The hardware shown on the bottom of the table is the factory hardware.

I'm glad I didn't go to the effort of radiusing the corners, like in the factory table. It's simpler and personally I prefer the way it looks. Though I may change my opinion about that the first time I accidentally bump into one of those sharp corners. ;-)
Click to expand...
So now that you've had almost 2 years to evaluate your proof of concept table, have you built a permanent final edition of your table design?, or relocated the hardware on the original table so that it can be used in the new position??
 
Oh, I like this! The leg of the table is a constant worry for me. First, my dog loves to tie knots with her leash. Second, my trailer is highly likely to be level. This would remove the additional step of leveling the table.

Nicely done!
 
dustinp said:
So now that you've had almost 2 years to evaluate your proof of concept table, have you built a permanent final edition of your table design?, or relocated the hardware on the original table so that it can be used in the new position??
Click to expand...
Yes, last year Cary built us a tabletop from some of their scrap 11-ply marine grade plywood, and his crew moved the hardware from our concept to the new table. The only required hardware modifications were the original bracket on the frame behind the bumper (courtesy of Craig a few years back) and cutting the table leg so that it didn't extend beyond the edge of the table when stowed.
 
Les Izmore said:
Yes, last year Cary built us a tabletop from some of their scrap 11-ply marine grade plywood, and his crew moved the hardware from our concept to the new table. The only required hardware modifications were the original bracket on the frame behind the bumper (courtesy of Craig a few years back) and cutting the table leg so that it didn't extend beyond the edge of the table when stowed.
Click to expand...

I followed the links -- I like what I see. I think I've got a winter project...well, one of dozens...
 
Hi Les: No dogs, or kids young enough to worry about. But I have inadvertently struck the table leg myself on occasion. I did like the simplicity your hack, and the fact that leveling the side table is now a thing of the past. Not that it was that much of a chore to begin with.

As you said, the load geometry of it is a bit of a mind-bender. But after some visual analysis, fueled by a beer, I believe that most of the stress, while under load, is in tension at the C-I wall connection Which, I would bet the farm, is well secured. The 6 screws holding the top end of the leg are primarily in sheer, owing to the acute angle. So I don't see those as a weak point either. The leg connection at the bumper support doesn't need to be that robust either.

As such, I fashioned piece of 1/2" plastic board narrow enough to fit 1/2" inside the square tube with the end plug removed:

View attachment 9874

View attachment 9876

The leg fits over it and can move neither straight up, down nor kick out sideways. When loaded with a cooler, it takes a significant lift (30lbs straight up 1") at the far end to get the leg to fully disengage. If the table is empty and is jostled, the leg goes back into position on it's own; no harm, no foul.

View attachment 9873

The plastic is a little rough-looking right now. I may clean it up, and/or paint it. But as is, it's hardly noticeable at only 1 1/2" X 1".

Serendipitously, the 3rd button-hole of the leg creates the exact proper length for a 90 deg set-up. Further, the first "stop" (when you are pulling the leg out) gives the proper angle, and at the same time provides a solid backing for the upper end of the leg, so the pivot bolt isn't taking all the compressive force at that end. Bomber. I'd trust my Dometic and a week's worth of groceries on it. But like you said: it's no dance pad. However, it's no less stable than when in its original leg-down configuration.

In case there are any variations between anybody else's C-I side table build, where the leg was attached, etc...and mine, do a clamped mock up first, before drilling anything. YMMV. Because of the acute angle, positioning the mount even a tiny bit up or down can magnify things at the far end of the table, and affect level/perpendicularity.

Bonus: it's real cheap hack.

There's other teardrop side-tables (Oregon) that are cantilevered far more extreme than ours. Not sure I'd want to attempt this as a DIY. Or stand behind it as a manufacturer. Looks sleek, but sketchy:

View attachment 9877
 

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The main issue with the bigger Oregon table is where to stow it. The CI side table is designed to fit in the cooler cubbyhole of the galley.

But I was thinking of something similar to your frame mount, only with an end angled up 45 degrees to mate with the bottom of the table leg. But what Craig fashioned for us works great, so no sense spending effort for only marginal additional benefit. Amazon has some simple extruded aluminum pieces with a 45 degree V profile that would likely work great if the dimensions work with the table leg.

Thanks for the post. It reminded me that, before we hit the road next week, I need to flip the "holey" part of the upper table leg around and drill an appropriate sized hole on the other side. That way, when we slide the lower leg out there is only one hole for the button to catch on, and the leg will be extended exactly the correct length. It might save us 2 seconds on set-up time, but more importantly it'll just work a bit better. ;-)
 
I saw the size of the Oregon surfboards. You're right about stowage. The extra counter space is nice. But if needed, just drag a picnic table from a neighbouring site. ;)

Drilling a dedicated hole on the opposite side of the leg is smart.

I posted because I didn't want people to think that a pricey, large, complicated or welded bracket was necessary in order to safely pull off this mod.

And it absolutely looks cool.
 
Yeah, the bracket that Craig fabbed for us was invested with about 3 minutes worth of thought and effort, based primarily on what was close at hand. But we needed to have that to be sure that the concept would work. So there was no sense in overthinking things at that point.

But you are right, there are lots of simple ways to skin this particular cat. Someone who likes to whittle can probably fashion something out of wood pretty easily, though metal or plastic are likely to hold up longer and probably won't be as bulky. The main thing is not to mount the frame bracket so low that the side of the tabletop opposite the camper slopes too much down and away. If it slopes too far in the opposite direction, the easy fix is to cut a bit off the end of the table leg to fine tune the leveling.
 
I like both ideas --- on two trips this summer, our cites were out of level enough that we could (using the "stabilizer") get level -- but my side table, even with full leg extension, as I couldn't find anything of adequate size to shim the leg, it was a source of frustration the whole trip. I think we call that "modern problems"

Having a reference point to the frame its a great idea, and looks like something I might want to do ---except for drilling a hole in the frame. I know the box does almost all of the structural rigidity -- but I'm not a fan of opening holes in metal if you can help it at all...

Great idea.
 
Sweeney said:
I like both ideas --- on two trips this summer, our cites were out of level enough that we could (using the "stabilizer") get level -- but my side table, even with full leg extension, as I couldn't find anything of adequate size to shim the leg, it was a source of frustration the whole trip. I think we call that "modern problems"

Having a reference point to the frame its a great idea, and looks like something I might want to do ---except for drilling a hole in the frame. I know the box does almost all of the structural rigidity -- but I'm not a fan of opening holes in metal if you can help it at all...

Great idea.
Click to expand...
I like the idea too, since we have run into the same uneven site issue at times. In looking at the pics, I thought they used the same holes used for mounting the bumper to the frame to mount the right angle piece. Were you maybe referring to "first world problems"??:)
 
I drilled a single hole in the 1 1/2’ x 1 1/2” angle, probably a little larger than it needed to be. Still lots of meat. That section of angle just extends to the bumper. And there are lots of factory holes in that piece anyway.

Because the table does extend far away from the trailer itself, yes… you can easily find yourself on a crappy site with a levelled trailer, but with the right trailer wheel now several inches off terra firma, and a side table leg that is fully extended, hovering a foot above the still-sloping ground, with only round rocks available to support it. Been there, tried that.
 
I toyed with rotating the side table. I had already bolted the camper brackets to the side wall to aide in using the “dog” bracket. The problem with a do it yourself rotation of the campinn side table is having brackets on the side table that will not pull out. I would guess the brackets on the table need to have bolts under the aluminum top. I looked at removing the aluminum top to gain access for bolts but the construction would cause too much damage. A factory table is the best solution.
 

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