Combo Smoke Detector

Randy

Randy

Ranger
Donating Member
Any recommendations for a combo carbon monoxide/smoke alarm? Looking for something small/low profile with a long battery life.

Can't find one that also detects propane, Having recently had a small propane leak it would be nice if it could detect all three.

Thanks,

Randy
 
Safe-T-Alert makes several different 12V CO/LP models specifically for RV's. Models include choice of color, choice of surface or inset mount, etc. They are available from any major RV store although some times they have to be ordered.

I've had mine for perhaps 5 years and am very pleased. I did have the unit alert for a 60kw diesel generator parked two spaces down the line (a good thing).


For more info google: Safe-T-Alert RV 35 Series 12V CO/LP

Cost is around $90

Recommend one pay particular attention to wiring. The unit likes to be connected to a 12V power source 24/7...on duty all the time. If the unit drops power, the unit alarms.

ciao
 
Carl I maybe interested in this....just seems logical. Where did you mount it? Was the wiring difficult? Also, Cary, if you read this string, your input would be appreciated.....Thanks R
 
There are many battery powered CO alarms and a few battery powered CO/Smoke combos. Have not been able to find any battery powered CO/LP combo alarms.

Randy
 
Initially, I purchased the CO/LP detector and shipped it back to CampInn for installation.

The unit was installed at the bottom of the foot wells. I hate the location, but the instructions say lowest point is the bottom of the foot well. The trick is to use a hiking stick to press the reset button. (Trying to reach the reset button by crawling under the cabinetry is something worthy of the Comedy Channel.)

The wiring is pretty straight forward....run wires from the unit, thru the bulkhead, and connect to the teardrop 12V battery. The unit will draw the teardrop battery down if you park the trailer for long periods of time. If the detector looses power, the detector emits a really annoying chirp and of course the detector is located under the foot well cabinetry

Remember that the RV detectors usually run on 12 volts DC; while home detectors usually run on 110 volts AC. I usually leave my teardrop connected to shore power when not is use.
 
The unit that Carl is showing is the very one we used in production for a couple of years. We stopped using them because we were having 100% failure rate. We tried and tested other units and found none would work in the teardrop either. For this reason we no longer install CO alarms.

We also tried ones with LP alarms but they would alarm as soon as you went inside the camper. The LP alarms are far too sensitive to work in the application.

Cary
 
Wow!!! 100% failure rate. I sure wouldn't argue with those findings. I yield to your expertise.

I searched for a recall data; but did not find any.

My experience to date has been positive. The detector Reset/Test unit displays as "OK". Given the data, I'll have to find a way to test. (I don't feel comfortable throwing an open propane tank into the cabin and waiting for the chirp.)
 
Carl,

Then if yours is still working it is not 100% failure then, more in the 99% range. We found we could not get them to stop alarming for no reason at random times during the day or night (no matter if the user was in the trailer or not).

As for if Safe-T-Alert is having recall or commonly having problems with them I don't believe they do. The issue seems to have sometime to do with the size of the air sampling the unit is measuring. It is not capable of working in such a small space as a teardrop trailer. These would probably work perfectly well in a 32' travel trailer. When trying other brands of CO detectors we had the same exact problem so it is not a brand issue, just a sizing issue. As for the propane sensing version the sampling size is even larger so it completely can not work in such a small volume.

One thing we have not tried is to look at some of the aircraft CO detectors out there. There would not be a propane version. These are much more pricier but we suspect sized better being for small aircraft cabins. Maybe someone would want to try one and get some feedback out? I know we typically will mount one of the small stick on chemical ones on the panel of our planes. If it suddenly changes color it is time to land. We had that happen once in one of my father's planes due to a cracked heat box on the exhaust.

Cary
 
Thanks for the info. We've experienced some random alerts in the past; but those alerts have always proved traceable to loss of power.

Interesting idea looking at the Aircraft CO detector.

I think I'll run a flexible exhaust tube from my street rod to the teardrop.
 
I bought an inexpensive battery powered CO detector when we got our trailer a year ago. The battery power means no false alarms from power cycling. It has been set off only once, when I started up my hot rod in the garage next to the trailer with the trailer door open; this is a good thing. My only little niggle is it has a green light that blinks about every 30 seconds, a little distracting when trying to go to sleep.
 
I just installed the Safe-T-Alert 12V CO/propane detector. I did not install it at the toe kick but on the next step up below the storage bins. I located directly next to the 12V power source so all I had to do is drill one hole and tap into the power to the cigarette lighter. A little tight making the connections in the galley cabinet but it was not too painful. I have the power cut off so I don't have to worry about it drawing power all the time. If anyone wants pictures of the install, let me know. I am camping in the next week or two so I should be able to report back any issues. Should be cold enough to run the heater.

It also has a green light flashing constantly so that could be annoying. Tape can fix that in a hurry.
 
I've had my trailer for 5 years now, and the CO detector that was part of my build has started a red-red, green-green light routine and a beep every few minutes. On the panel it says that the detector must be replaced every 60 mos. I think, so I guess that is what it is telling me. Can't see how to get it out of there though, as taking the screws out of the faceplate doesn't get me anywhere. Since CI doesn't even bother with them anymore, I guess I'll just snip the power wires that go to it, unless somebody has a better idea.
 
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