Hitch Receiver Anti-Clunk

[rotus8]

The combination of a relatively light tongue weight of the Camp-Inn and the normal loose fit of the hitch ball mount in the receiver, there are annoying clunks coming from the rear of my tow vehicle when going over bumps or rough roads. I made a modification to eliminate the clunks.

The pictures show what I did. I drilled a 1/2" hole in the center of the bottom of the receiver. I drilled a corresponding hole in the ball mount. The position of the holes is the furthest toward the front of the car that would still get a good purchase on the ball mount. I then welded a 1/2" fine thread nut (it's actually a lug nut I had) inside the ball mount. To assemble the whole thing, I install the ball mount in the receiver as normal with my locking hitch pin. I then thread a 1/2" fine pitch bolt through the hole in the bottom of the hitch, through the ball mount and into the nut, using a lock washer, and tighten.

The nut inside the ball mount doesn't really have to be welded in, you could put the bolt in and put the nut on from inside if the back of your receive is open. But tack welding it in place makes the bolt much easier to install.

Our desert outing between Christmas and New Years was about 2,000 miles and not one clunk.

Bolt in place in hitch

Hole in hitch

Nut welded inside ball mount

Bolt installed

 

[Les Izmore]

This might be an alternative for someone without a big investment in tools. DakotaDave pointed out another CI owner at last year's CICO that had one of these. I love it, as it certainly quiets things down and it is simple to install:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5TA2QQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Mine is installed with the bottom of the U hook over the bottom lip of the hitch, with the two bolts pressing down on the ball mount to keep it from rattling. I opted for the nuts facing up, since gravity and vibration might cause a nut to come loose and get lost if pointed down.

 

[nwhiker]

Here is the perfect solution. I have used it for the two years I have owned my trailer. "softride"

www.softride.com then click on quiteride. They are in Bellingham, wea 369 647-7420

Works absolutely perfect. I have recommended this to other and they love theirs.

Dave

 

[rotus8]

Thanks Steve and Dave for pointing out the alternatives. I have read about the hitch pin locking solutions and the Amazon reviews are pretty mixed. If mine proves a problem long term I will certainly check out these. I do have a tendency to go my own way... :grin:

 

[Jan]

The combination of a relatively light tongue weight of the Camp-Inn and the normal loose fit of the hitch ball mount in the receiver, there are annoying clunks coming from the rear of my tow vehicle when going over bumps or rough roads. I made a modification to eliminate the clunks.

The pictures show what I did. I drilled a 1/2" hole in the center of the bottom of the receiver. I drilled a corresponding hole in the ball mount. The position of the holes is the furthest toward the front of the car that would still get a good purchase on the ball mount. I then welded a 1/2" fine thread nut (it's actually a lug nut I had) inside the ball mount. To assemble the whole thing, I install the ball mount in the receiver as normal with my locking hitch pin. I then thread a 1/2" fine pitch bolt through the hole in the bottom of the hitch, through the ball mount and into the nut, using a lock washer, and tighten.

The nut inside the ball mount doesn't really have to be welded in, you could put the bolt in and put the nut on from inside if the back of your receive is open. But tack welding it in place makes the bolt much easier to install.

Our desert outing between Christmas and New Years was about 2,000 miles and not one clunk.

Bolt in place in hitch

Hole in hitch

Nut welded inside ball mount

Bolt installed

The combination of a relatively light tongue weight of the Camp-Inn and the normal loose fit of the hitch ball mount in the receiver, there are annoying clunks coming from the rear of my tow vehicle when going over bumps or rough roads. I made a modification to eliminate the clunks.

The pictures show what I did. I drilled a 1/2" hole in the center of the bottom of the receiver. I drilled a corresponding hole in the ball mount. The position of the holes is the furthest toward the front of the car that would still get a good purchase on the ball mount. I then welded a 1/2" fine thread nut (it's actually a lug nut I had) inside the ball mount. To assemble the whole thing, I install the ball mount in the receiver as normal with my locking hitch pin. I then thread a 1/2" fine pitch bolt through the hole in the bottom of the hitch, through the ball mount and into the nut, using a lock washer, and tighten.

The nut inside the ball mount doesn't really have to be welded in, you could put the bolt in and put the nut on from inside if the back of your receive is open. But tack welding it in place makes the bolt much easier to install.

Our desert outing between Christmas and New Years was about 2,000 miles and not one clunk.

Bolt in place in hitch

Hole in hitch

Nut welded inside ball mount

Bolt installed

 

[Jan]

I tried two other solutions to the "loose" hitch issue. This was my third attempt and it works great: https://www.amazon.com/StowAway-Tightener-Anti-Rattle-Stabilizer-Hitches/dp/B0001CMUV4/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0001CMUV4&pd_rd_r=0WDCY46BCQW6ZYNJAEVR&pd_rd_w=u3EY1&pd_rd_wg=iwLL5&psc=1&refRID=0WDCY46BCQW6ZYNJAEVR

 

[rotus8]

I actually moved on from my "solution" a long time ago. It turned out to be too fussy to install and I did have the bolt come loose on long tows. Instead I got a tightener similar to the one posted by @Jan, made by Hitch Tech. I got it for $13 from Amazon Amazon.com: Stainless Steel "Quiet-Collar" Hitch Tightener by HitchTech - Superior Lock Washers: Automotive. I found that putting the plate on the top of the hitch works best with my Rock Tamers, plus access to the nuts is much easier.

I have since replaced the nuts and lock washers with stainless nylon locking nuts. Lots of miles on it without problem.

 

[SethB]

Just ordered the Hitch Tech tightener, and upside down looks like the way to do it! Thanks Rotus8.

My yard debris / utility trailer does a lot of bouncing around when its empty, I think this will help there, too.

 

[Randy]

This anti rattle lockable hitch pin works well with my setup.

Anti-Rattle Trailer Hitch Receiver Lock for 2" Hitches - 2-5/8" Span Lets Go Aero Hitch Lo

 

[Van_and_Terri]

I saw on anther forum that simply driving a small wooden wedge in between the receiver and the hitch stopped all movement and rattles.

 

[Tour 931]

I saw on anther forum that simply driving a small wooden wedge in between the receiver and the hitch stopped all movement and rattles.

That is what I was thinking of doing.

 

[SethB]

Hmm... I’m sure a good hardwood wedge could really help the rattles.

I’d be a little concerned about access to drive it back out if it did jam up in there. Punching out the hitch from under the car would certainly work, but, it’s under the car! I hate that stuff. Other brute force methods involving chain and another object or vehicle to anchor it onto would seem to involve some risk of steel flying through the air.

Am I missing something?

 

[Tour 931]

I'm not seeing that problem.

 

[Mary & Mark]

I'm not seeing that problem.

I used composite/plastic shims and while they were effective at stopping rattles they did take some under-car effort to remove. I bought one of the u-bolt hitch tighteners after seeing it on this forum and am anxious to give it a try.

Mark

 

[Tour 931]

I used composite/plastic shims and while they were effective at stopping rattles they did take some under-car effort to remove. I bought one of the u-bolt hitch tighteners after seeing it on this forum and am anxious to give it a try.

Mark

I guess the difficulty that might be encountered is not important to me because my TV is a dedicated car and I won't be taking if off.

 

[SethB]

I guess the difficulty that might be encountered is not important to me because my TV is a dedicated car and I won't be taking if off.

Sure, if the ball is always mounted that wouldn't be much of a problem. Getting under the car once or twice a decade (if it's even needed) isn't so bad.

My situation is a little different. Since my TV is my daily driver, the ball might go on and off twice in some weeks.

 

[Tour 931]

Sure, if the ball is always mounted that wouldn't be much of a problem. Getting under the car once or twice a decade (if it's even needed) isn't so bad.

My situation is a little different. Since my TV is my daily driver, the ball might go on and off twice in some weeks.

I suspect not many have a dedicated TV like me. My last TV was not dedicated but I left the hitch on anyway. In your case I can understand why you wouldn't like my remedy.

 

[Mary & Mark]

Sure, if the ball is always mounted that wouldn't be much of a problem. Getting under the car once or twice a decade (if it's even needed) isn't so bad.

My situation is a little different. Since my TV is my daily driver, the ball might go on and off twice in some weeks.

I tried leaving the hitch ball in-place but after I and others bruised our shins while removing golf clubs, groceries, etc I adopted a practice of removing the hitch insert when not towing. I found the inconvenience of lying on the ground to insert and remove shims was well worth the effort to avoid the pain of smashing ones shin against a hard metal object.

 

[hiadventurer]

This is what we use:
Malone Anti-Rattle HitchLock System Malone Hitch Anti-Rattle MPG908
Picked.one.up.on eBay for.half.the price. Works.great...

 

[rotus8]

I got one of these:

This plus an old tennis ball, saves your shins and your pants from getting greasy too!