This write up is to identify sources for LED replacements for all of the bulbs on the outside of the teardrop. They are all being used on a 2008, Raindrop 560 Ultra.
The first project and the easiest is replacing the side running lights on our raindrop that takes 6 LED replacements I got the link for these off of this board, from a moctoc posting.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BP2BOPC/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These come in groups of 4 so I ordered 2 packages. I ordered thru the link above at Amazon.com from a company called Cutequeen. The ones I ordered were the white LEDs and they are bright some folks may want to go with colored LEDs so they are more yellow and red. Your choice. Installation is simple, all you will need is a Philips screw driver. The only thing to be careful of is to make sure the black lens gasket is seated properly when putting the lens back on.
The second project that I did was for the optional backup lights which not everyone has. This project is a little more difficult. Because the LED units are deeper and the grommets are tighter you will need to order the kit which contains the following.
(2) White 2.5” round 13 LED custom Mini Reverse Backup Lights / Grommets / Wires sold by Closer to wholesale
The reason for buying this grouping was to get the deeper grommets. The wires in this kit you will not use because the existing wiring is just fine.
http://www.amazon.com/Custom-Rever...1407767534&sr=1-18&keywords=backup+led+lights
Be careful when ordering you want the 2.5” units not the 2” ones. To install these you will need to remove the existing units and their grommet which are not deep enough for a flush mount. On my trailer the existing wholes were a little tight, so I enlarged the hole just a little with a dremel tool. My guess is this was because the new grommets are of a thicker heavier material. They are also of a different design and give you a tighter seal. Once the grommets are in then the units can be installed but before you push them into place test them LEDs are polarity sensitive and if you have them backwards they will not light. Just unplug the connector reverse it and plug it back in and retest to see that it lights up. So with the top label up (back center) start working them into place, what I found was with a medium size flat bladed screw driver pry the grommet away from the unit edge and then pressing in they will go into place a section at a time. You will have to work your way around the unit but eventually it becomes a flush mounted unit which looks really nice and is much brighter. This project took me some time to get both units installed and may not be for everyone.
The third project was the license plate light. What I found after removing the chrome shield was that the flat factory plastic closure had in fact warped due to heat from the existing bulb and let water in. This required me to clean up the rust inside the shield which I then hit with a coat of a bright silver paint. I removed the wrapped plastic and replaced it with a new flat piece which I custom fit and glued into place to make it water tight. The bulb I got was a 15 LED unit thru Amazon from Super Bright LEDs, Inc. at the following link below.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...gleBaseChild&gclid=CO7k_ee8i8ACFYMF7AodnloADQ
Like the side marker lights it is a simple bayonet mount, followed by the three screws for the cover. These three small projects will give you many hours of good service.