Lithium Battery BMS Behavior

Well, @Sweeney you can write it off as business expense, right? Training and evaualtion? ;)
One thing I have noticed is its not easy to find auto shops, stereo installers or even RV repair places that can trouble shoot trailer-hookup, ctek, lithium and solar issues, from the TV start battery to the RV house battery.

Some just say "our insurance wont let us do anything solar" etc.
What it really comes down to is the ability to troubleshoot at the basic wiring level but understanding how new things added in the system, interface.

So you have that going for you at a high level.
I think there are far fewer auto electric shops than we once had. I feel lucky that the major u-haul is not so far from my house, and their trailer/hitch/electrics shop is not bad, because our local auto electric shop went out of business maybe 10 years ago.

If you are anywhere near fishing or recreational boat fleets, there is still a lot of custom marine electric/electronics work being done, including cool parts and accessories, solar, lithium batts, etc…
 
I think there are far fewer auto electric shops than we once had. I feel lucky that the major u-haul is not so far from my house, and their trailer/hitch/electrics shop is not bad, because our local auto electric shop went out of business maybe 10 years ago.

If you are anywhere near fishing or recreational boat fleets, there is still a lot of custom marine electric/electronics work being done, including cool parts and accessories, solar, lithium batts, etc…
Got same tip from a senior victron support guy who happened to be sales manager for Precision: go to a marine service place at harbor that does solar on boats.

With the construction and hardware on these little "glamping land yachts" being aviation-marine grade or inspired, it makes sense that way too.
 
I have a lot of experience with the LiPo battery, victron charger (IP65 15A), victron smart shunt. It’s a long story, but i’ve had the setup for few years now. I currently have the CI recommended LiPo battery. It has a basic BMS in it. Here is what i know. First and foremost- configuring the smart shunt properly is a major PIA. If not impossible. If you dive into how it works, the parameters, etc you’ll quickly realize that its an estimate of battery SOC. AGM SOC measurement is based on voltage. Voltage decreases as SOC declines. So you can get a reasonable approximation of SOC. Since it kills the AGM battery if you go below 50%, precision doesnt matter so much. You gotta keep it charged up. Since LiPo voltage is constant until it is almost fully discharged, you cannot rely on voltage. Hence the complicated smart shunt parameters. BTW, as noted sbove, store your LiPo at 40-60%. They don’t like to sit fully charged. Also don’t go below 20%. Many BMS will shut down at 20% to prevent damage.

But on the smart shunt and SOC- if any one of your parameters you configure are even slightly off, you won’t get accurate SOC readings. I’ve been fiddling with the parameters for a few years now, done more research than a Nobel prize winner. I’ve only been able to get it sorta sometimes maybe accurate. It’s all a bit of a mystery. Here is what I’ve found. I use the Victron app for both the ip65 charger and the smart shunt. You can through a combination or these devices figure pretty closely if you’re 100% charged. Study the charging LiPo charging profile for the victron charger. Both devices will give you the total amps during a charging session. The charger data is better for this, it will show you total amps, bulk, maintenance etc. by knowing how many amps the battery took during the charge and comparing it to what your smart shunt said your SOC was before charging, you can get a sense of whether your parameters the smart shunt are good. Note that in my experience the smart shunt will often show 100% SOC before you actually get there. I know this because of the total amps charged per the charger report, when the smart shunt shows 100% before charging. It can be wildly off. You can force reset the SOC to 100% after fully charging. But that doesn’t do you much good if your shunt parameters are off. Your SOc reading will be off as you discharge. I’ve found that with 110Ah (?) battery, it doesn’t matter so much what my SOC is. I have more than enough capacity to run everything I have for days (5-6 days)

Also I have seen from research that some LiPo batteries with extra smart BMSs will end up fighting with your charger. That sounds like that maybe your problem. Both systems (the charger and the BMS) are trying to do similar or conflicting tasks. Since it’s harder to get a dumber LiPo charger, you really need a more basic BMS (which means battery).
 
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I'm very interested in your 'boondocking' test results, especially if you decide to use solar at all. Interesting about the furnace being a power hog - how many watts does that draw? I figured, it being on propane, the only power needs would be the blower/fan.

I shall be living vicariously through you this weekend!
You live a boring life if you live through me vicariously.

I Left the house Friday with the camper in tow and the lithium bank sitting at around 70% SOC. Two hours of tow vehicle charging and I rolled into the campsite at 8:00 PM at 99%. That's the last time I thought about the battery until I started taking notes.

Friday Night

Loaded the CFF35 12V compressor cooler with a a few warm ones, about to be cold and some groceries for Saturday. Left the galley light on for a couple of hours. Charged the phone and watch. Vent fan running. Normal stuff — nothing heroic in termf of saving power. Pretty much just as I would use it with shore power, herpahs even a little more 'wasteful' --- thninking worst case sceneario

(is it just me? Every time I say worst case, I think sausage and cheese)

By midnight: 91% SOC, fan still running at about half speed overnight. It was the first time in a long time I did not use the AC at all -- the temperatures were perfect!!!!

Saturday Morning — 81% SOC

Fan ran all night with one marker light burning. Lost 10% overnight. This is the point where the ol' a lead-acid battery is going to make less sense -- that battery woudl be getting pretty close to 50% by now, which is, as we know where damage starts to happen inside the cells. On lithium, I didn't give it a second thought.

Saturday Afternoon — 67% SOC

At 67%, I'd be watching the gauge nervously and shutting things off. Instead, I left everything running.

Saturday Evening, 6:30 PM — 57% SOC.

Voltage holding at 13.1V. The vent fan and compressor cooler are the main draws, and adding the refrigerator definitely accelerated things. I'd routinely see aroud 4.5-5 amps being used. Per the BMS: 57 Ah remaining, approximately 9 hours of runtime left at current load. That puts exhaustion around 3:30 AM which will become interesting in a moment.


Saturday Night: 10 PM 49% remaining. Running fan on high, refrigerator bringing a few sodas down to temperature, 1 light on -- charging a phone, and a watch. Pulling 10 amps from the battery. I havn't seen this question in the forum in a while, but the 'small' is not adequate if you are a super power user. At that rate, BMS is saying 5 hours... but the fridge will soon stop chugging as it will have gotten down to its target temperature, and the light will go out, and the phone wil be satisifed. I'm thinking I"ll make morning.

Sunday Morning: 4:19AM The observation taken at 6:30 where it project 3:30 depleation? It was off just a little...4:19 my fan suddenly stopped. The BMS cried mercy and powered off the battery. Pretty good considering the project was 3:30.


Next trip, I'm sure I'll need AC -- but I cna power off the charger seprately. I plan on the same experiment but doing two things different.

1] Power saving mode -- being sure to turn non-essentials off when not in use
2] Plug in the solar panel. I've got folding suitcase panel -- I think it is 150 watt...We'll see how it help me...

So --- there you go!
 
Whatdaya think I’m buying a camper for? :p

Great report bud. Hope it was a fun weekend and your back is all better!

It was an OK weekend --- I bought a rope with me that had way too many knots in it, metaphirically. I need to find a way to untie those more often. But, I feel like I've had a day off which is something I havn't felt in a while.

Back is doing much much much better thanks for asking, though it is a little tender at times. This new and ongoing problem is making me reconsider what I do --- my 30 year old brain is realizing the body attached is twice its age.

I Kind of expected that would happen. I think I'm going to defocus repair and shift more towards inspection. I get a request here and there for those, and I think if I market it I can find a market. I found a few holes in my business plan - which is expected, no battle plan ever survives contact with the enmy.

I had a few more thoughts about the battery, and ran into a few technical issues -- I'll be figuring those out and keep this updated.
 
I'm very interested in your 'boondocking' test results, especially if you decide to use solar at all. Interesting about the furnace being a power hog - how many watts does that draw? I figured, it being on propane, the only power needs would be the blower/fan.

I shall be living vicariously through you this weekend!

I didn't have a soid amp reading -- I'm seeing comments that this family of furnaces are very low -- 3.1 amps. I may have to test that ...

Honestly, I never leave mine 'on' except when I'm awake, and I usually run it for a few minutes just to warm the cabin, then turn it off, until I get cold again. I like to sleep in cold rooms, so its never a real problem.


Well, @Sweeney you can write it off as business expense, right? Training and evaualtion? ;)
One thing I have noticed is its not easy to find auto shops, stereo installers or even RV repair places that can trouble shoot trailer-hookup, ctek, lithium and solar issues, from the TV start battery to the RV house battery.

Some just say "our insurance wont let us do anything solar" etc.
What it really comes down to is the ability to troubleshoot at the basic wiring level but understanding how new things added in the system, interface.

So you have that going for you at a high level.

Well, technically my van has signs on it, and I do take 'calls' from people in the park --- so it COULD be argued as a business expense in any condition :) And yes --- I do >if< my intention is to drum up business. If my intention is R&R, then I do not claim it.

I think the insurance thing is a red herring -- a lot of guys simply don't understand and it saves face to blame the insurance...Or they simply aren't 100% sure they can and can't do under the insurance, the policy commonly used is issued by 1 company and it is rather ambiguous on some things. Particularly on 'edge' cases like solar where tehre is some expertise and extra training avaialble.

Honeslty though, if they aren't confident -- I do not want them touching it anyway!
 
@Sweeney Glad that you seem to be getting your Lithium adventure all sorted. I also took the Lithium plunge last summer and installed the same LiTime heated group 24, so it's great to hear your experiences. I've been meaning to do a post on my install...maybe I'll get around to it.

A few things, I've found. First to deal with parasitic draws, middle term storage (days or weeks vs months), and even things like the breakaway brake switch. I added a dedicated 60 AMP fuse breaker at the battery (see picture). Works as a disconnect and fully isolates battery from all charging and loads, great piece of mind when checking connections and fidling around that nothing is connected (also doesn't require plugging in the charger to turn the battery back on like turnoff the battery using the battery phone app). The camp-inn disconnect still turns off loads but allows the battery to be charged and keeps the brake away circuit powered. Just need to reset the breaker before towing to power up the breakaway circuit.

I also had started off with similar charging issues as you. What I noticed my is my shore charger (high end Victron unit) doesn't have a separate voltage test line to measure voltage at the battery during charging (like my solar charger has). Instead the AC shore charger measures voltage output, and that voltage did not agree with the voltage shown on the battery BMS. Basically at high charge currents I was getting a large resistive voltage drop due to small gauge wiring and long cable run. Since my charger was installed in the factory location under the camper above the axle (2012 model) I couldn't do much about length so I pulled fresh oversized charge wires to minimize voltage drop. Interestingly even the stock charger cabling seems undersized for length for such a high amp shore charger. However, the larger cabling at least coupled with setting the charge voltages to the upper end of the LiTime recommended settings did the trick. There is still a voltage off set during the initial high current constant voltage charge but the voltages readings (shore charger and battery BMS) merge as the charge current tapers off in the constant voltage stage and the charge current goes towards smaller numbers (V=I × R so smaller voltage drop at smaller current). This allows the charger to fully the battery before going into storage mode.

Look forward to following your continued adventures and maybe I'll get around to that Lithium install post I been meaning to draft...
 

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@Sweeney Glad that you seem to be getting your Lithium adventure all sorted. I also took the Lithium plunge last summer and installed the same LiTime heated group 24, so it's great to hear your experiences. I've been meaning to do a post on my install...maybe I'll get around to it.

A few things, I've found. First to deal with parasitic draws, middle term storage (days or weeks vs months), and even things like the breakaway brake switch. I added a dedicated 60 AMP fuse breaker at the battery (see picture). Works as a disconnect and fully isolates battery from all charging and loads, great piece of mind when checking connections and fidling around that nothing is connected (also doesn't require plugging in the charger to turn the battery back on like turnoff the battery using the battery phone app). The camp-inn disconnect still turns off loads but allows the battery to be charged and keeps the brake away circuit powered. Just need to reset the breaker before towing to power up the breakaway circuit.

I also had started off with similar charging issues as you. What I noticed my is my shore charger (high end Victron unit) doesn't have a separate voltage test line to measure voltage at the battery during charging (like my solar charger has). Instead the AC shore charger measures voltage output, and that voltage did not agree with the voltage shown on the battery BMS. Basically at high charge currents I was getting a large resistive voltage drop due to small gauge wiring and long cable run. Since my charger was installed in the factory location under the camper above the axle (2012 model) I couldn't do much about length so I pulled fresh oversized charge wires to minimize voltage drop. Interestingly even the stock charger cabling seems undersized for length for such a high amp shore charger. However, the larger cabling at least coupled with setting the charge voltages to the upper end of the LiTime recommended settings did the trick. There is still a voltage off set during the initial high current constant voltage charge but the voltages readings (shore charger and battery BMS) merge as the charge current tapers off in the constant voltage stage and the charge current goes towards smaller numbers (V=I × R so smaller voltage drop at smaller current). This allows the charger to fully the battery before going into storage mode.

Look forward to following your continued adventures and maybe I'll get around to that Lithium install post I been meaning to draft...
@RichE That looks very clean!
Is that hole on left side of photo of battery compartment made as a pass thru to where? Cabin?

Did you jigsaw cut that opening in the forward side of the battery compartment?

I've been noodling on how that method might be one way to vent heat, for a lion battery stored in a high temp storage lot, per the caution earlier...

I wonder if the interior cabin cabinet door on the other side of battery compartment hole shown there were to be left open and battery side access panel were drilled with enough holes and then the right side galley bin cover left cracked ...
there ought to be be enough air flow sucked IN by the Fantastic Fan left cracked an inch and set to automatically run as needed, would then push thru to battery compartment...

Thats assuming the ambient air in the storage lot coming off the roof of the CI is cool enough at some point to cool the battery.

Or reverse the flow and pull from the battery compartment out thru cabin and out the fan...

Hmmm. Sweeneys muffin fan sounds smarter...somewhere to be determined.

Mine is stored in a semi shaded outdoor lot where it never gets warmer than 90 degrees in summer, and often cools to high 50's in winter. I've been experimenting on leaving the fan cracked to cool the cabin, which runs down the battery, thats recharged by rootip 126w panel when the sun rises high enough thru the trees. The Victron shunt has a history graph thats handy you can expand the horizontal scale as needed.

You'd need a solar panel to recharge the lion, as a battery maintainer, if you were to cover the rooftop solar, and find away to exhaust the fan if left cracked under cover..,

I'm thinking of having a sail shop put a vent with flap to allow that but keep rain out.
What do you all think? Too much? Maybe sew in a clear panel like some sails have, to allow sun on rooftop panel to make energy.

We get very little rain here so leaving it uncovered has been ok...its welcome as a fresh water washdown!

So far so good.
Now I have to unF the wiring and battery placement by Jr victron tech at the RV shop I took it to for help installing the bat-tree and troubleshooting a ghost charge...

that was resolved with Craig, Cary, Sweeney help but I gotta re-route some wires and connect up the CTEK signal wire the Victron kid thought unnecessary...cut and capped off....(name of shop to remain anonymous as half the problem was my failure to be very specific...or stand by and watch over shoulder.

My experiments are done, getting to be time to get on the road.
 

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I have a lot of experience with the LiPo battery, victron charger (IP65 15A), victron smart shunt. It’s a long story, but i’ve had the setup for few years now. I currently have the CI recommended LiPo battery. It has a basic BMS in it. Here is what i know. First and foremost- configuring the smart shunt properly is a major PIA. If not impossible. If you dive into how it works, the parameters, etc you’ll quickly realize that its an estimate of battery SOC. AGM SOC measurement is based on voltage. Voltage decreases as SOC declines. So you can get a reasonable approximation of SOC. Since it kills the AGM battery if you go below 50%, precision doesnt matter so much. You gotta keep it charged up. Since LiPo voltage is constant until it is almost fully discharged, you cannot rely on voltage. Hence the complicated smart shunt parameters. BTW, as noted sbove, store your LiPo at 40-60%. They don’t like to sit fully charged. Also don’t go below 20%. Many BMS will shut down at 20% to prevent damage.

But on the smart shunt and SOC- if any one of your parameters you configure are even slightly off, you won’t get accurate SOC readings. I’ve been fiddling with the parameters for a few years now, done more research than a Nobel prize winner. I’ve only been able to get it sorta sometimes maybe accurate. It’s all a bit of a mystery. Here is what I’ve found. I use the Victron app for both the ip65 charger and the smart shunt. You can through a combination or these devices figure pretty closely if you’re 100% charged. Study the charging LiPo charging profile for the victron charger. Both devices will give you the total amps during a charging session. The charger data is better for this, it will show you total amps, bulk, maintenance etc. by knowing how many amps the battery took during the charge and comparing it to what your smart shunt said your SOC was before charging, you can get a sense of whether your parameters the smart shunt are good. Note that in my experience the smart shunt will often show 100% SOC before you actually get there. I know this because of the total amps charged per the charger report, when the smart shunt shows 100% before charging. It can be wildly off. You can force reset the SOC to 100% after fully charging. But that doesn’t do you much good if your shunt parameters are off. Your SOc reading will be off as you discharge. I’ve found that with 110Ah (?) battery, it doesn’t matter so much what my SOC is. I have more than enough capacity to run everything I have for days (5-6 days)

Also I have seen from research that some LiPo batteries with extra smart BMSs will end up fighting with your charger. That sounds like that maybe your problem. Both systems (the charger and the BMS) are trying to do similar or conflicting tasks. Since it’s harder to get a dumber LiPo charger, you really need a more basic BMS (which means battery).
Thanks David! Your help and encouragement convinced me to go with the Victron shunt and IP67 7/17A charger. The shunt was VERY helpful to troubleshoot a ghost draw from furnance (another story) that killed my AGM bat-tree and almost did same on the Precision...good news is Lion is harder to kill, if you dont make a habit of it...)

Maybe we can talk more in a few days about your Nobel Research? I can PM you my mobile # or email.

Take it easy, and obtw hows the new TV working out? Stylin' with the Land Cruiser?
 
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Thanks David! Your help and encouragement convinced me to go with the Victron shunt and IP67 7/17A charger. The shunt was VERY helpful to troubleshoot a ghost draw from furnance (another story) that killed my AGM bat-tree and almost did same on the Precision...good news is Lion is harder to kill, if you dont make a habit of it...)

Maybe we can talk more in a few days about your Nobel Research? I can PM you my mobile # or email.

Take it easy, and obtw hows the new TV working out? Stylin' with the Land Cruiser?
PS: a couple notes at my basic level so far, on the victron shunt and charger use:

1. I went this way as my old 2010 had no Trimetric to show current draws. CampInn was not backfitting lithion into 2010 and earlier (which makes sense as there are a couple significant electrical changes in 2012, I understand)

But I could certainly fool with it if I chose to and following Seths lead on victron and David Rossiters on the Precision for long trips across Canada, I jumped on one last bat-tree in stock at an RV supply warehouse at a good price, understanding I might have a learning curve ahead at my own expense.
As I researched Victron I was impressed at the quality and use in marine applications, but note they are BIG and sold everywhere so getting customer service on your item is based on sales channel...ya gotta dig for answers. So far the service on that has been good, but only once I got the basics down on Ohms Law and which connects to where- why;
the leg bone to the ankle bone, current is like water in a garden hose, etc.
Again, why you need a @Sweeney or a colleague locally from RVGeeks. Its like taking your car to the stealership vs an independent car shop that knows what they are doing, or a mobile tech who comes to you...

Its not rocket science but if you dont have basic tools there is a learning curve...or a reason to drive to the Nest before or after visiting CICO...;)

@David Rossiter concur on what the victron shunt does via bluetooth victron app on my iphone. The shunt is good for current and voltage, and history in and out.

So when the AutoW fuse is in, you can see on the app just how much that draws while parked,
or when you run the fantastic fan at high speed, how much, how long
or when the furnace blower kicks on (three times then off if no gas, repeatedly if you have a shorted out after market cheap digital thermostat...killing your bat-tree...;)

2. On victron charger; My CI has the add on bumper which has ears underneath to bolt to the frame that partly cover the tunnel where the original Marinco charger was installed. So when that old charger died, I just cut the wires and capped them off at the old Marinco
and installed the Victron shunt and AC charger in my right galley bin easy to get at, see the little blue glow that by is working etc.
i already have the added on CTEK and AutoW in there and my battery compartment was crowded with wiring for those mods I asked CampInn to add (as I bot and took over from second owner who jad it in the shop for repairs, and then decided to sell after.)
I took Craigs advice to use an AC plug in the battery compartment and just plug in the 120v plug of charger in that, vs hardwire. So if I want to take battery out for winter i take charger with and out on the bench. And if I change to another charger (I first used a Noco5 as its good for flooded cell/AGM/lion and now CI reccomends the NOCO10, easy to pull out and read lights on progress too, but no shunt, no BT)

3. The shunt and charger both connect to same bt app, and victron supports them with periodic firmware and software updates by cell or wifi on app.

4. If the lion is so dead it cant be charged by victron ac charger you may have to basically "jump start" the battery to reset the battery BMS to accept a trickle charge from the victron. Literally- apply 12v from a jump box will do it. I used my Noco jump box, but it could also be jump cables from the tow vehicle battery.
Once I did, I could see the Victron charger showing power going in, and the shunt as well. No idea why the Precision could not charge up from almost dead, without a reset but it worked...something to do with the BMS protection below a certain voltage shutting battery drain off, that prevents a charge going in if not high enough to reset, I guess.

This tip was from the Precision battery sales guy in Jax who was also the victron referred service contact for the sales channel of victron sold on amazon.

5. Next experimenting with running the victron charger off a little blue genny as I might if caught boondocking in cloudy rainy snow and solar panels cant keep up on either the CI house batt and/or extra sogens.
Two is one, One is none as they say...

I've PMd you @David Rossiter to pick your brain on Nobel Prize research on all that...

PS: Any lurkers or existing CI owners thinking backfit to lion best to ask Cary what brand lion they are going with in new builds once the inventory of Precisions is out.

I notice lion battery tech is improving as fast as lion sogens are and lots of advantages to following the lead of CampInn with two inverter engineers with years of experience in these rolling land yachts...but these LiTime bat-trees look pretty kewl, so following closely...
 
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@RichE That looks very clean!
Is that hole on left side of photo of battery compartment made as a pass thru to where? Cabin?

Did you jigsaw cut that opening in the forward side of the battery compartment?

I've been noodling on how that method might be one way to vent heat, for a lion battery stored in a high temp storage lot, per the caution earlier...
The cutout does go into the cabin. Footwell area under the cabinets. It was leftover where I removed a non-functional CO detector ( I do have battery powder CO installed and am working on wiring up a dual CO/propane one)

I actually cover it up, although I did run a conduit line through there and into the rights side galley cabinet where my DC/DC and solar charger controller is located.

I hadn't considered using it for cooling although now I'm considering whether a grate might be a good alternative to the blanking board I installed to allow some passive (or active as you describe) cooling of the battery area.
 
The cutout does go into the cabin. Footwell area under the cabinets. It was leftover where I removed a non-functional CO detector ( I do have battery powder CO installed and am working on wiring up a dual CO/propane one)

I actually cover it up, although I did run a conduit line through there and into the rights side galley cabinet where my DC/DC and solar charger controller is located.

I hadn't considered using it for cooling although now I'm considering whether a grate might be a good alternative to the blanking board I installed to allow some passive (or active as you describe) cooling of the battery area.
Thanks! That could also be a handy way to discharge this stuff if needed into bat-tree compartment. Thats the other rnd of the heat range: camping below zero overnight and sun starts charging the bat-tree, which is bad juju.

I understand the heated lion batteries BMS is supposed to use battery juice to preheat the battery to avoid that but...just in case...a himged and latched door like the cabinet cubbies...lots easier than popping the galley hatch, opening galley bin, digging thru and removing stuff, unscrewing the battery door, hmm.
 
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Thanks! That could also be a handy way to discharge this stuff if needed into bat-tree compartment. Thats the other rnd of the heat range: camping below zero overnight and sun starts charging the bat-tree, which is bad juju.

I understand the heated lion batteries BMS is supposed to use battery juice to preheat the battery to avoid that but...just in case...a himged and latched door like the cabinet cubbies...lots easier than popping the galley hatch, opening galley bin, digging thru and removing stuff, unscrewing the battery door, hmm.

The battery I have can warm itself in two ways...if you have 10 amps coming in, it can heat tha battery purely off the incoming voltage --- or, it can use the battery cells to self-warm. I'm not convinced I"ll ever use the feature -- my garage is semi-heated, and never goes below 35 or 40 degrees, and for the most part, if I'm camping its during the shoulder/summer season...I don't do much if any sub-freezing temperatures, though it has happpened a few times.

I probably could have solved the problem using a battery cutoff switch that detected low voltage then saved the battery by disconnecting it -- but the price point of LIFEPO4 and Lead Acid deep cycles were very close to the same...the lifepo4 was actuallly just a little less expensive...shockingly.

Pretty please so far, except for the aforementiond difficulty getting the shunt to report correctly...but thats not a big deal with a BMS that is smarter and connected.
 
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