Shark Hide Application

rotus8

rotus8

Ranger
Donating Member
I have convinced myself to apply Shark Hide metal protectant immediately after taking delivery of the Pony Inn in October. My question is how much is needed to do a two coat application? It comes in a quart can - is this enough to do two coats on a 560? I would hate to run out but don't want to buy two quarts if I don't need it; the stuff is not cheap.
 
I had convinced myself of the same thing. I really do not want to ever Walbernize. Cary discouraged me from applying anything and talked of the value of patina. He said just be sure to keep it clean. It is really hard to decide what to do when you are so far from home and no place to work.
This is the only thing this big I have ever purchased just for my own fun and entertainment and I want to take the best care of it I can without making it into a job.
I have some water streaks running down under the windows from the trip home that don't come off with washing or mineral spirits. Of course every little mark I see just scares me to death. Do these eventually blend in with the patina?
 
I'd rather be camping. I have gotten beyond the initial 'newness' and desire to keep it in pristine condition. I do as Cary and Betsey suggested. I wash it regularly with Dawn and that is it. It does have marks on it and they may eventually create a patina. I am satisfied with this approach.
 
I tried to remove some spots with Walbernize. Don't do it. You would rather have a sever beating.

Climbing Mt everest without help would be easier. Let it go.

Dave
 
Patty,

If you're staring at your trailer enough to see a few streaks, you need to camp somewhere purtier. Let the view distract you. After you mentioned it, I went out and looked at mine. It has streaks in a few places as well as some cat prints that may become permanent kinda like the old cave paintings. Even a scratch or three. It's part of the personality. Plus I just like saying "patina."
 
I live a few miles from the ocean and there is definitely salt in the air all the time. I will also need to store the camper outside under a cover due to lack of an enclosed parking space for it. I have an all aluminum car hauler that is stored outside and it's "patina" is pretty ugly.

I did get a reply from Shark Hide about coverage: "A good safe guess is to figure about 500 square feet." So one quart should be plenty to do a 560.

I also have a small car that has a polished aluminum skin. It does get to live inside, but even so is on the list for a refreshing having "patenated" significantly, and I am planning to protect it when I am done, possibly with Shark Hide or maybe with ShineSeal. ShineSeal is highly rate for this sort of thing, but is ridiculously expensive! There was a product called ZoopSeal, but it is no longer available, I suspect because it had chemicals that were highly toxic.
 
I'm really trying to relax and let it go but it is really hard.Maybe next year I'll have her broke in and won't worry so much.
 
We brought our 550 Ultra home last September. It had a few marks on it so we decided to Walbernize it - turns out for neophytes like us it was not so easy and we did a terrible job. Eventually we managed to make it look respectable but not the shining wonder we had hoped for. We have not been able to use it since Christmas so it has been left well alone in our garage. Now we are getting ready for a big trip in June I noticed that it has developed quite a nice patina so I think we are going to stick with that after all!
 
I applied sharkhide to my camper about 2 years after it was born. I buffed it out and got a reasonable shin. I then followed the sharkhide directions. I have had this coat for about 3 years now. One thing I noticed......below the door on the aluminum our naked legs, rubbing the aluminum, have created a particular shade(patina). I assume salt from the body has had a reaction. Either way the aluminum is not fully protected, or the finish has thinned. I will strip it out buff it out and reapply. I suggest to use a sprayer. I would consider borrowing one if I was unwilling to buy one. If it is a warm day, the liquid will take a set and leave stroke lines, so be careful. I think I will do mine this winter when it is in the mid 50s. A slow cure seem to flow well and stoke line will disappear, if you don't use a sprayer. I would spray at least two coats, you will like 3 better. You must concern yourself about dust and such as that. It strips easy with mineral spirits. I removed my bumper, tail lights, license plate holder. To do it w/o concern, tape your windows, and your front bump cover, and your roof vent. After this work, two coats seems easy.
Steve
 
SimonHahn said:
We brought our 550 Ultra home last September. It had a few marks on it so we decided to Walbernize it - turns out for neophytes like us it was not so easy and we did a terrible job. Eventually we managed to make it look respectable but not the shining wonder we had hoped for. We have not been able to use it since Christmas so it has been left well alone in our garage. Now we are getting ready for a big trip in June I noticed that it has developed quite a nice patina so I think we are going to stick with that after all!
Click to expand...

Wouldn't it be something if part of the new owner orientation included an introduction to Walbernizing on a less than shiny, weather worn sample. I can just visualize the customer being handed the necessary "uniform" - paper coveralls, plastic gloves, and shower cap - then the poor sap being slapped on the shoulder and told "We'll check in on you at closing time". The struggle to accept the patina look might just fade away a whole lot sooner :D
 
pnutbuttrptty said:
I have some water streaks running down under the windows from the trip home that don't come off with washing or mineral spirits. Of course every little mark I see just scares me to death. Do these eventually blend in with the patina?
Click to expand...

I am also a proponent of allowing the aluminum to develop a patina, but for those of you that want to start with a 'clean-slate' / remove water marks / etc I recommend using NAPA Aluminum Brightener.
Comes in a 32oz spray bottle and / or 1 gallon plastic jug

You need to use gloves when applying since it contains a weak solution of phosphoric acid and sulfuric acid. (It is not as dangerous as hydrofluoric acid used by the trucking industry but you should still take care).

Start at the bottom of the trailer and work up. If you start at the top, any drips will cause streaking (streaks can be removed but it then takes more time). No scrubbing required. I use a bucket and a small sponge to apply. Leave on for a few minutes and when everything looks evenly clean, rinse off thoroughly.

Aluminum will look like new with a satin finish. Google it if you want examples.
 
CampInn7_zpsf7e2e857.jpg


Top half shows some patina, bottom half after a quick wipe of AL brightener.
 
So, what is the verdict on Shark Hide? It does not appear to be subject to chipping, etc. as it does not appear to be like an enamel or clear coat.

Seems like the Nu Brite is good to clean it and shark hide or woody wax to protect it and keep it or at least slow it down from oxidizing.
 
"Rollin' Rosie" enjoys life au naturel. I got talked out of my protective coating obsession by Cary, too.
He says that when Jenn leaves her trailer in the shop for maintenance, visitors ask how she gets it to look the way it does. The answer is: plain old soap and water.
Good enough for me, although I am interested in exploring that NAPA Aluminum Brightener.
 
Jenn's trailer is beautiful but I could not overcome the horrible thought of ending up walbernizing and buffing. When I arrived home and saw the black streaks running down from my windows I kind of panicked. After the next couple of trips the runs seemed to be getting darker and a few more marks appeared even though I washed it with soap and water after each trip. I had already purchased the Shark Hide so thought I might as well use it. The shark hide is removable by using Virgin Lacquir Thinner. I thought that might be easier if it became necessary than Walbernizing and buffing. The trailer looks good. The black streaks have lightened some and blended but still there. I did get some runs and have just left them for now. The cooler the weather the better the Shark Hide will flow out. I'll have to wait and see what happens.
 
pnutbuttrptty said:
Jenn's trailer is beautiful but I could not overcome the horrible thought of ending up walbernizing and buffing. When I arrived home and saw the black streaks running down from my windows I kind of panicked. After the next couple of trips the runs seemed to be getting darker and a few more marks appeared even though I washed it with soap and water after each trip. I had already purchased the Shark Hide so thought I might as well use it. The shark hide is removable by using Virgin Lacquir Thinner. I thought that might be easier if it became necessary than Walbernizing and buffing. The trailer looks good. The black streaks have lightened some and blended but still there. I did get some runs and have just left them for now. The cooler the weather the better the Shark Hide will flow out. I'll have to wait and see what happens.
Click to expand...

Thanks. How long have you had it on? Sounds like this is a good option. We will likely be placing our order by end of year or early next year. It would be nice if we could get it applied prior to pick up.
 
Sorry I did not see this and answer sooner. I have only had the sharkhide on for a couple of months. It seems to be holding up well and I don't see any new stains on the trailer. Good luck with whatever you decide.
 
Pat,

Any trouble with the application of the Sharkhide, streaking, etc.?

Thanks,

Randy
 
I noticed that on one side above the door there is an area that looks a little like scratches. I don't know at this point if it is in the sharkhide or the aluminum. I think in the sharkhide as I think I would have noticed it if it had been there before. I didn't do a perfect job but I am happy with it. On the roof I went over it after a few seconds and it was already dry enough that it ruffled a little. I figure no matter what happens to the sharkhide it is not permanent and I can touch it up or remove and replace in spots if I decide I want a more professional job. I just really, really don't want to walbernize or do anything that requires buffing. I was scared to death before I tackled the job but got over it after the first coat. Just remember the cooler the day the better.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top