Solar Generator Newbie

Randy said:
Very helpful article for sure. I went with the Goal Zero Yeti Core. https://a.co/d/iWJY4Pw At $899 it's $400 less than the Goal Zero Yeti 1000x with a few less bells and whistles like app monitoring and expansion capability. Both have the Anderson PowerPole outputs which I was after. Both are NMC. Note that on the Goal Zero the Anderson port is in a vertical configuration instead of horizontal. Happily I discovered that you can easily uncouple the positive and negative ends of an Anderson Powerpole male plug and reconfigure them into a vertical position. I successfully added the Anderson Powerpole plug onto my Dometic cord.

For solar panels, I went with two of the lightweight XSTAR SP100 panels. One to keep the Goal Zero topped off and one to keep the camper house battery topped off. They can also be daisy chained for 200 watts of charging. XTAR SP100: Portable &Foldable 100W Adjustable Solar Panel. With John's appropriate note of caution on reviews, this panel has gotten a lot of positive feedback. Note that these panels do not have a solar controller. If your camper does not have a controller you will need to use an external one. I use this one and it works great.
https://a.co/d/8t9Djx7

Together with my new Victron 100Ah AGM Super Cycle Battery I think I am finally set! It has been a journey and frankly, a bit of obsession! My wife is relieved this is over, ha ha! :)

Going to say again, do not get the Jackery to run the Dometic. The cigarette lighter plug will not stay connected even when stationary! I think there is a design flaw with their socket size even though they won't admit it! Happily I was able to sell both my Jackery and 130 watt glass (and very heavy) Zamp panel on Craigslist.
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For the record and just in case anyone is doing the same, I ran into a couple of snags charging the Goal Zero with my auxiliary line on my truck coming from a Victron DC to DC charge controller. The input voltage display on the Goal Zero kept scrolling in increments from 0 to 90 and back to 0 again.

Issue one is that my Victron DC to DC charge controller on my truck ran into a conflict with the Goal Zero charge controller. The solution was to program the Victron as “Power Supply” instead of “Charger.”

Issue two was that the model 12-12-30 DC to DC charger model that I had could be programmed to send 10-15 volts. Turns out 15 volts was for some reason insufficient to charge the Goal Zero. I replaced it with a model 12-24-15 that can be programmed to send 20-30 volts.
https://a.co/d/e0FOMuV
After some YouTube research (see video below) I programmed the new charger as follows:
Function: Power Supply
Output: Enabled
Output Voltage: 20.0 Volts
Input voltage lockout: 13.2 & 13.4

The Goal Zero now shows a steady 203 watts of input voltage at idle. Very happy and plan on using my previous charger to replace the OEM battery isolator in the camper as previously described by Rotus.

I should add that Goal Zero support was of no help, They said their battery would not work with a DC to DC charger. I refused to accept that answer and found the solution via this gentlemen’s video for which I am very grateful. Wanted to give him credit:

-Randy
 
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I've been using the BougeRV LiFePO4 portable solar generator for a while now, and I must say I'm impressed with its performance. It's lightweight, portable, and provides enough power to run essential appliances and devices in my RV. The Bluetti EB240 is another solid option, especially when paired with multiple solar panels for extended off-grid use. Both units offer clean and quiet power, making them ideal for camping and boondocking.
 
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manuel palmer said:
I've been using the BougeRV LiFePO4 portable solar generator for a while now, and I must say I'm impressed with its performance. It's lightweight, portable, and provides enough power to run essential appliances and devices in my RV. The Bluetti EB240 is another solid option, especially when paired with multiple solar panels for extended off-grid use. Both units offer clean and quiet power, making them ideal for camping and boondocking.
Click to expand...

I've had my eye on BougeRV for a while --- they seem to be a decent company. I haven't heard anything talking bad about anything they sell...their 12 volt refrigerator will be what replaces my domestic if/when it does again.
 
Randy said:
For the record and just in case anyone is doing the same, I ran into a couple of snags charging the Goal Zero with my auxiliary line on my truck coming from a Victron DC to DC charge controller. The input voltage display on the Goal Zero kept scrolling in increments from 0 to 90 and back to 0 again.

Issue one is that my Victron DC to DC charge controller on my truck ran into a conflict with the Goal Zero charge controller. The solution was to program the Victron as “Power Supply” instead of “Charger.”

Issue two was that the model 12-12-30 DC to DC charger model that I had could be programmed to send 10-15 volts. Turns out 15 volts was for some reason insufficient to charge the Goal Zero. I replaced it with a model 12-24-15 that can be programmed to send 20-30 volts.
https://a.co/d/e0FOMuV
After some YouTube research (see video below) I programmed the new charger as follows:
Function: Power Supply
Output: Enabled
Output Voltage: 20.0 Volts
Input voltage lockout: 13.2 & 13.4

The Goal Zero now shows a steady 203 watts of input voltage at idle. Very happy and plan on using my previous charger to replace the OEM battery isolator in the camper as previously described by Rotus.

I should add that Goal Zero support was of no help, They said their battery would not work with a DC to DC charger. I refused to accept that answer and found the solution via this gentlemen’s video for which I am very grateful. Wanted to give him credit:

-Randy
Click to expand...
Thanks again Randy for sharing all this info.
The Goal Zero unit you linked a year ago is down to $649 at Amazon. Seems like a sweet simple solution for a "house battery" for the Dometic stashed in tow vehicle.

This is how I'm rolling on longer stays away from shore powered campsites: Relion sogen powers dometic. Relion recharged now only by solar...for now.

I also found the dometic cigarette plug fit into my ReLion 72ah sogen to be just about unworkable with any kind of motion, so often checking it hasnt worked loose.
and once snapped off a tip on the fused plug from Dometic- (my bad for not enough clearance or strapping down unsat) and mention the fragility in rough use as another aspect of the cigarrette plug's less than ideal design.)

And iirc there is a youtube somewhere in the forums about the aussie(?) guy who hates the poor connection for power losses on cigarrette plugs.

So when times come to replace the Relion,
I'll definitely be looking for the Anderson plugs ports.

Hows it going now, a year later for you?
 
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Hey Kevin,

Been VERY happy with the Goal Zero. Always arrive at 100 percent charge and heck, it will run the Dometic for three days without solar but I have a panel for it for longer trips. The Anderson connection is rock solid.

For me, dedicating a SoGen to run the Dometic has been the key to managing my power needs.

Cheers, Randy
 
Randy said:
Hey Kevin,

Been VERY happy with the Goal Zero. Always arrive at 100 percent charge and heck, it will run the Dometic for three days without solar but I have a panel for it for longer trips. The Anderson connection is rock solid.

For me, dedicating a SoGen to run the Dometic has been the key to managing my power needs.

Cheers, Randy
Click to expand...
Thanks, Randy! Hows the Victron DC to DC alternator charging the Goal Zero working?

Are you also alternator charging the CampInn via a CTEK or...

If so,
Does your truck alternator handle those at same time, or are you using a battery isolator type switch to choose A or B or Both?

Thats where I'm at- how to connect the Sogen in tow vehicle for alternator charging going down the road.
 
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Charger is awesome. I always arrive at my destination with the Goal Zero at 100% charged. It puts out 200+ watts plus of charging power at idle. Yes, the truck charges both the Goal Zero via auxiliary line and CampInn battery via 7 pin hookup with no problem. I’m not sure the camper battery gets all the wattage it could while driving. I would like to replace the OEM camper battery isolator with a DC to DC charger someday but haven’t worked up the courage yet! Honestly with the Dometic taken off the camper battery I have plenty of power that I keep topped off with solar. I leave with it at 100% and don’t run anything electrical while driving so not really an issue except multi day multi site trips. I really like keeping the Dometic in the back of the truck to eliminate lifting it, added safety in bear country and keeping my side table free.

I do not have a CTek. I can monitor and control settings of both the both the Victron DC to DC auxiliary charger and the new Victron Energy Blue Smart IP67/that I installed on the camper via Bluetooth. I also have SmartShunt 500 on the camper battery for monitoring when not driving.

Here is a great thread on installing an auxiliary line. If you PM me your email I can send you my step by step instructions with product links (if I still have it) that I shared with someone else. All credit to Rotus as it was his design that I followed.

Of course, if Michelle ever lets me buy a new Ram truck, there is a 110 outlet in the bed, problem solved! So far I haven’t been able to convince her that we need one. :)

Auxiliary Battery For Refrigerator

Hope that helps,

Randy
 
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Randy,

For sure your camper battery is not being fully charged while driving without a DC to DC charger. If the camper has just a base straight charge line from the tow vehicle we estimate about 80-85% maximum charge on the camper battery. Having a DC to DC charge like the CTEK , Victron or Redarc installed will not only get you full 100% while driving it will allow more charging amps and therefor a faster charge. This also would provide battery isolation (so yes replacing the isolator in the camper with a charger is a good plan) and protection to the alternator and tow vehicle's battery from the camper's battery. The protection of the alternator is important for example if using a lithium battery in the camper.

Cary
 
Randy said:
Charger is awesome. I always arrive at my destination with the Goal Zero at 100% charged. It puts out 200+ watts plus of charging power at idle. Yes, the truck charges both the Goal Zero via auxiliary line and CampInn battery via 7 pin hookup with no problem. I’m not sure the camper battery gets all the wattage it could while driving. I would like to replace the OEM camper battery isolator with a DC to DC charger someday but haven’t worked up the courage yet! Honestly with the Dometic taken off the camper battery I have plenty of power that I keep topped off with solar. I leave with it at 100% and don’t run anything electrical while driving so not really an issue except multi day multi site trips. I really like keeping the Dometic in the back of the truck to eliminate lifting it, added safety in bear country and keeping my side table free.

I do not have a CTek. I can monitor and control settings of both the both the Victron DC to DC auxiliary charger and the new Victron Energy Blue Smart IP67/that I installed on the camper via Bluetooth. I also have SmartShunt 500 on the camper battery for monitoring when not driving.

Here is a great thread on installing an auxiliary line. If you PM me your email I can send you my step by step instructions with product links (if I still have it) that I shared with someone else. All credit to Rotus as it was his design that I followed.

Of course, if Michelle ever lets me buy a new Ram truck, there is a 110 outlet in the bed, problem solved! So far I haven’t been able to convince (er that we need one. :)

Auxiliary Battery For Refrigerator

Hope that helps,

Randy
Click to expand...
Thank you!
PM sent.
 
Cary Winch said:
Randy,

For sure your camper battery is not being fully charged while driving without a DC to DC charger. If the camper has just a base straight charge line from the tow vehicle we estimate about 80-85% maximum charge on the camper battery. Having a DC to DC charge like the CTEK , Victron or Redarc installed will not only get you full 100% while driving it will allow more charging amps and therefor a faster charge. This also would provide battery isolation (so yes replacing the isolator in the camper with a charger is a good plan) and protection to the alternator and tow vehicle's battery from the camper's battery. The protection of the alternator is important for example if using a lithium battery in the camper.

Cary
Click to expand...

Thanks Cary, I agree. Any chance you have step by step instructions for replacing the OEM Isolated with a DC to DC charger? I have a Victron charger sitting in a box but have been hesitant to try and install it.
 
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rmbrowder said:
W

Works good. I last used it at the NC outerbanks.
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These Safari MEs look like a sturdy unit. They have the Anderson output, which is key for getting the best resistance free connector to something like a Dometic (you have to replace Dometic cigarette plug with Anderson ends).

They have reconditioned units on sale RN with 5 year warranty...not bad!

Recertified Products
 
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I run an OUPES solar generator, which is in the same class as the Jackery/Bluetti units. It powers our fridge, lights, phones, and even a small fan. Just keep in mind, it charges a bit slower than newer models, but it makes up for it with that huge battery capacity.
 
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