Solar Panel Project

Evan

Evan

Administrator
Donating Member
I'd like to add a solar panel to my 560. At this point, I know virtually nothing about solar panels, but there seems to be a lot of room on the roof of the 560.

Convenience is huge factor to me - I'd rather have a semi-permanent setup than be fiddling with it all day long. Of course, mounting it on the roof means it won't be getting the best angle to the sunlight, but it seems to me this could be overcome by mounting it with a pin in each corner. Any two pins could be removed allowing any one side to angle up towards the sun.

The dimensions on the 80w panels are about 21" x 48" which would fit nicely on the roof. Cary or Craig - would you care to comment on the feasability of this project? Specifically, on what it would take to add the new "Solar Option" (10a controller) to an existing rig.

There's also screwing into the roof to consider, as well as running the cable.

Last, I'm not sure 80w is an appropriate size for the trailer. I don't plan on running too much crazy stuff, but I would like to be able to be off the grid for a week or so at a time.

Welcoming all comments and suggestions....
 
Evan, I know that they can add the solar controller after the fact because our TD is going to have it added in May when we head to Camp-Inn then on to Yellowstone. We just have to pick up a solar panel somewhere.
Charlie
 
Evan,
Here's a great thread from the Teardrops & Tiny Travel Trailers site that talks about all things Solar.
Solar Power Info
I'm interested in getting a solar setup, too, but I don't think I'll be needing it yet as we're not likely to be staying in one place long enough to make it practical. (Since the car will charge our battery when moving from campground to campground.) But once we scale back our work schedules we will have the time to be able to stay in a campground long enough to make solar work for us. Plus, I like the idea of 'getting off the grid'. ;)
Ken & Peggy
 
Lyle,
That looks like an interesting option for a permanent mount - I like the idea of gluing instead of putting a hole in the top of the TD.

If I do add solar power, I think I would opt for a pole mount, for a couple reasons. It would be able to be stowed when not in use, it could be angled to better catch the sun, and it could be placed in the sun while the TD might be in shade.

Just my initial thoughts on it - I'm not even sure it will make sense for us to do, since we don't yet know how much camping we'll be doing after semi-retiring in a few years. I saw a kit advertised for a 125W setup for $750, which, while not really too expensive, is not worth it for me at this time.

I do like the idea of being able to generate all the power we might need, though. And I have to think these systems will continue to get more affordable in the future.

Ken
 
Our 560 will have the Solar Panel (jack) option on it. Not sure if we will buy a panel immediately, or wait a little. Primary motivation is an annual 1-week camping trip to northern Minnesota. It's on an island in the middle of a lake, accessible by causeway.

As mentioned above, I would be looking to pole-mount the panel away from the trailer. This way we can park in the shade and put the panel in the sun. Prefer this approach from an appearances perspective, as well.
 
I don't have a solar panel on my tear. I have a 64watt UniSolar panel I had on an RV a few years ago. I had it on a 25' cord and could park my RV in the shade and move the panel, at the correct angle, into the sun. That size panel would keep 2 6v golf cart batteries, rated at 225 amp/hour, well charged and would allow me to boondock as long as I wanted and my water lasted. But they are over 60 pound each and, besides, there is no room for them in the tear. I now use this setup as an independent remote power source. I would think that an 80 watt panel would be more than you need. How many a/h is your battery? Even if you have a fairly large single 12v that panel would be overkill. I'm just saying you might be able to use a physically smaller panel.
 
Thanks Ken - looks like you are right.

I'm hoping that Cary will perhaps chime in and give a recommendation on the size of solar panel that would work best to keep the small battery topped off with minimal to moderate use.
 
Ya you betcha. I just had a good conversation with a customer of ours who is in the business of selling solar panels about this. For average use such as lights, pumps and occasional fan use a 50-60 watt panel is adequate. If using a powered fridge or some other large DC load a good 80-85watt panel is in order.

Cary
 
Cary,

If I mounted a panel on the roof of my 560 (above the sofa), do you or Craig have any ideas about how to run the wiring to where it needs to go? I sure don't. All I can think is putting in a jack at the back of the trailer, and running a cord (temporarily) to the panel when in use.
 
Evan,
I think they usually put a jack on the side wall near the battery compartment - something like this SeaLink
I'm not sure how you'd handle the wiring from there to your panel, though, but there must be a way to fashion a plug right at the panel end, too, so it can be removed when not in use. Have you considered mounting the panel remotely? It would give you much better efficiency and the ability to park the trailer in the shade.
 
Ken,

As far as I can see, that's what I would have to do - plug it in on both ends when in use. If I were building from scratch I'm sure the cable could be hidden (too late for that).

I would like to mount it on the roof for two reasons:
1) Convenience: Just plug it in, and it will start charging.
2) Storage: Don't have to pack it.

Of course, there are a couple glaring problems with a roof-mount:
1) Wrong angle to the sun (may cut efficiency in half)
2) Camper may be parked in the shade

I'm trying to figure out a way to allow the roof mount to be angled in any direction (solves problem 1), and to be easily removable when the camper is parked in the shade.

I have an idea that I think may work. First, build an angle-aluminum frame around the panel. Second, use eight locking plunger pins (pictured below) - one pair through the roof-mounted frame and into the panel on every pivot axis. Open up any six, and the remaining two pins would act as a hinge on that axis. Pop out the last two, and the panel could be lifted down and set up in the sun.

pull-ring-locking.jpg


I think the convenience factor is important, because otherwise the panel would never get set up.

Any comments on this?
 
What about plugging the panel into the trailer wiring harness as if the trailer is being charged by the tow vehicle?
 
I know of one customer using his 7 prong connector in front for connecting to the solar panel. One issue that can prevent this though. That is the battery isolator option. If you have the isolator option it won't work to do this because of the turn on voltage needed at the isolator. So, if you don't have an isolator that is a slick way to do it. If you do have one then you need to wire in something like the Sealink connector.

Cary
 
L.M. - not sure if you saw this link. It's similar to what you want to do:
http://www.campinnforum.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1576#Post1576

I don't want to have to mess with my system - In my opinion, a huge perk of solar is the convenience of your battery automatically charging itself whenever the sun shines. That's why I'm going to start with a roof mounted panel that requires no setup - even though not the most efficient. Perhaps later I'll add a second 'remote' panel that can mount on the hitch or away from the trailer in the sun.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top