The roadrunner is Big Bend National Park’s mascot, we saw them everywhere during our stay, streaking across the road, screaming through the campground, they came to visit us in our campsite in the early mornings and late afternoons. It was fun to watch them forage among the thick brush on either side of us, we saw them hop up to branches 4 feet above the ground and then glide down to earth again in search of their quarry of bugs, snakes and lizards. They have a certain attitude when they are hauling ass, head down, tail held high, you half expect them to pause in mid flight and flash a big smile just like in the cartoon, meep, meep!
The park draws a lot of birders, I like to stop and chat, they are almost always willing to share what they’ve been seeing. They pointed out to us that the birds in the Big Bend area tend to have more vibrant colored plumage than the same species in other locals. It sure seemed that way to us too, we’d never seen such richly red cardinals and cobalt blue scrub jays. The super saturated colors of the vermilion flycatcher seemed surreal, very tropical.
The very remoteness of the park makes for a unique experience. Big Bend gets only about 3% of the visitors that Great Smoky Mountain NP gets. And it doesn't have the word big in it's name for nothin, it took us an hour to drive to Rio Grand Village campground once we entered the park. There are 3 areas, full service, just a parking lot for the big RVs, a large open area for RVs with generators and a no generator area with partial shade and decent privacy, we chose the latter for just 7 bucks a night with our senior discount. The campground occupies the former site of a Danish immigrant families efforts to cultivate the desert in the 1930s. You can still see the reservoir, irrigation canals, gates and ditches used to get water from the river to their fields.
We spent the week hiking. The park has more cactus species than anywhere else in the states. Some of the trails are so beautiful that you would swear it was the work of some mad genius landscape architect with a penchant for rock gardens, but it’s mile upon mile of it, it’s just nature on a grand scale. The hikes up and over the mountain ridges are especially beautiful because like Wyoming and Montana this too is big sky country and with that dry crisp air the views are almost forever. No camera could ever capture the beauty of the place. You have to be there in person to experience it.
Of course the Rio Grand looms large here, it is the giver of life, water being so important in the desert. It’s only a short walk to the river from the campground. And standing at the waters edge with Mexico only a stones throw away you can’t help but be reminded of the historical significance of the place. The setting certainly also reminded us of a 1,000 B Western scenes of bank robbers fording the river into Mexico with the law hot on their trail.
Rio Grand, Old Mexico to the left, the good ol US of A to the right( campground is on the right)
We thought we might camp at Chisos Mountain basin campground. It’s gorgeous, the basin is ringed with mountains, there’s an opening in a ridge called “the Window” with a view of the desert thousands of feet below. However the polar vortex extended deep into the heart of Texas, all the way to Big Bend and the overnight temps were close to zero up there. We got overnight temps of 15 degrees down at Rio Grand Village. That was plenty cold, thank you. Sure glad we had our furnace.
After about a week our supply of fresh food was disappearing fast so we struck camp and headed for Alpine to resupply and then on to Guadalupe Mountain NP with a visit to Davis Mountain SP on the way, but that’s another post.
Michael