We have been on our first extended trip with our new to us #560. We have been learning a lot about the wide variety of camp site conditions we will be setting up on and the value of the heavy duty stablizer/leveling jack on the camp‐inn trailers. Ours was built in 2009 which means we need to use the hand crank. Question: When setting up on uneven ground are the stabilizers strong enough to carry the of the trailer and occupients or is something like the Bal‐lever something we should be using? Thanks
Tire Levelers
- Thread starter Holly Bee
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- levers stabilizers
...and remember to use one stabilizer to get the lower side of the TD level with the other side, and then lower the stabilizer on the other side just enough to firmly touch the ground, and stabilize that corner without actually lifting that side of the TD. Only one tire should be lifted off the ground for leveling the TD. Use chocks to keep from rolling when lifting the tongue from the hitch with the jack. You can use the cabin doors to monitor the front to back leveling. If level, the doors will stay in the position you put them. If not, they will try to swing open or closed, depending on whether you have the tongue jack to high or to low.
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Sweeney
Administrator
Is your hand crank the "eyelet" type crank? I'd seriously consider upgrading those...for the newer campers they use a 3/4 nut sized end. They are a TON easier to work with because you can use a standard 3/4 socket...which is what I use. It works much easier than the hand crank.
The standard RV industry answer is that the legs are 'stabilizers' not designed to lift any weight. That said, I've used mine to jack up my camper completely so I could change a tire. With jackstands, the same for brake adjustment and soon, packing bearings.
Is this my recommendation? No. That would be advising against manufacturer instruction. HOWEVER...Don't do as I do...but I have done it many times would be lying to you if I said otherwise.
The best leveling system I've found is a Camco 44423 Curved Leveler. Just put it under the low side tire and pull into it until the camper is leveled...then chock it. This is a little "Fiddly" but works really well. Sadly there are still campsites that I haven't been able to get level on --- some sites idea of "level" is completely different than mine
The Camco's are super robust --- I've still got mine that I've had for close to 10 years now, and are still 100%.
The standard RV industry answer is that the legs are 'stabilizers' not designed to lift any weight. That said, I've used mine to jack up my camper completely so I could change a tire. With jackstands, the same for brake adjustment and soon, packing bearings.
Is this my recommendation? No. That would be advising against manufacturer instruction. HOWEVER...Don't do as I do...but I have done it many times would be lying to you if I said otherwise.
The best leveling system I've found is a Camco 44423 Curved Leveler. Just put it under the low side tire and pull into it until the camper is leveled...then chock it. This is a little "Fiddly" but works really well. Sadly there are still campsites that I haven't been able to get level on --- some sites idea of "level" is completely different than mine
The Camco's are super robust --- I've still got mine that I've had for close to 10 years now, and are still 100%.
....never mind what I said about raising the low side TD tire off the ground with the stabilizer, and do what Sweeney said instead!
Thank you all for your reassurance that we seem to be using the correct methods for leveling the trailer. The only thing we might want to do differently is to eventually upgrade to the newest levelers so we no longer need to hand crank the eyelet style. We have found this trailer to be the easiest setup we have experienced with any trailer.
Sweeney
Administrator
The trick is keeping it simple....Man, I wish I could learn that lesson
Between grills, smokers, side tents, rooms, and clams it starts to get a little busy -- just deciding what to take for an excursion takes an evening
I just wish I could figure out how to get the Big Green Egg on board
If our eyelet style stabilizers ever need replacement, the 3/4" headed one is obviously the way to go, but having said that, I've never thought cranking them down with the eyelet and J hook rod was a problem. Don't think I've ever spent more than 30 seconds doing it, and hand cranking rather than using a cordless drill and socket probably reminds you sooner when the threaded shaft needs a little lube. If you really want to be able to use a cordless drill you could always cut off your J hook rod near the crank, and chuck it up in a cordless drill, or better yet make a new J hook rod without a crank and carry both so when you forget to charge the battery you still have the crank as backup.