Re: Energy Independence: Goal Zero
Sorry Joan!
Joan said:
Sorry Joan!
Energy Independence
- Thread starter jfocallag
- Start date
Hey Joan, is that a new voltmeter?! NICE!
Ken,
I don't remember if the other one did this, but this one will indicate whether the battery is charging or not. In the picture above, the battery is charging. You can tell by the round circle and the gauge on the right goes down to half way. When it is not charging, there is a battery symbol at the top and the gauge indicates the status of the battery. Alcat, the only light that displays corresponds with the battery status.
I don't remember if the other one did this, but this one will indicate whether the battery is charging or not. In the picture above, the battery is charging. You can tell by the round circle and the gauge on the right goes down to half way. When it is not charging, there is a battery symbol at the top and the gauge indicates the status of the battery. Alcat, the only light that displays corresponds with the battery status.
Joan, I like it - where'd you find it?
Ken & Peggy said:
Here you go, Ken:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVWDU0/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks for the link Joan, I just placed an order.
Kelly
Novice
Re: Energy Independence: Goal Zero
Hi Joan,
I apologize for not responding to your question earlier . . . I just spotted it. I am not sure if you still are interested in knowing how I did the Goal Zero wiring, but I chose to purchase a separate 4.7 mm input 6ft extension cord from Goal Zero. This is the cord that I used to wire the cigarette plug into. The reasons I chose to do this (rather than wire the cigarette plug directly to the briefcase/panel) were twofold: a) if the solar system project turned out to be a bust, I could still return the panels and eat the $12 or so for the extension cable that I played electrician with; and b) I knew from the outset that I would be linking more than one goal zero briefcase together. For those who want to link two or more briefcases together, you will also need a 4.7 mm Input 4x Combiner. This allows you to link all of the panels to one cord, which is then connected to the extension cord with the cigarette plug. It all fits very neatly together. Note to others who may wish to do something similar but opt for a different style of Goal Zero panels, not all panels use the same size of extension cords/connectors.
I didn't take any pictures showing how I wired the cigarette plug together, but it was not too bad to do. I suspect the wiring in the solar panels is similar to what is used for stereo equipment. But, I haven't done any wiring of stereo equipment, so don't hold me to that. The very center of the cord is white (with wiring within that) and then there is more stranded wiring between the white wiring and the outer exterior black cord - I hope that makes sense (in other words the white wiring is encased within the black cord). I don't know how to explain it any better than that.
I found varying online information as to whether or not wiring to post selection mattered when using this particular type of wiring. Some suggested it doesn't matter - they are both neutral - whereas others disagreed. I wired the inner (white) wire to the positive and the outer (black) wire to the negative post. I am still here to talk about it and nothing went poof on my trailer, so I must have done something right.
I started out with two Escape 30 briefcases and used them intermittently during a five day camping trip in Jasper with varying light conditions. I was mooching off of my parents during the trip, so I didn't place many electrical demands on the trailer. The panels kept the battery levels in good shape though. I have since added a couple more panels (for a total of 120 watts), but I haven't put them all to the test yet. I hope to do that soon. I won't necessarily use/need all 4 briefcases at all times. I will likely only use all 4 briefcases when I am staying in one spot for a few days or more.
I agree with comments from others that Goal Zero panels are expensive, no doubt about that. I have cut myself off of buying anything else for the Raindrop for a very long time! Certainly the Escape 30 briefcases aren't for everyone, but I selected them in the end because they best fit my personal requirements. They had just better work for a very long time!
For those of you who want to use your solar panels during the winter months (depending where you live/play of course), Goal Zero might not be a good option.
I hope I have answered your question, Joan.
Cheers,
Kelly
Joan said:
Hi Joan,
I apologize for not responding to your question earlier . . . I just spotted it. I am not sure if you still are interested in knowing how I did the Goal Zero wiring, but I chose to purchase a separate 4.7 mm input 6ft extension cord from Goal Zero. This is the cord that I used to wire the cigarette plug into. The reasons I chose to do this (rather than wire the cigarette plug directly to the briefcase/panel) were twofold: a) if the solar system project turned out to be a bust, I could still return the panels and eat the $12 or so for the extension cable that I played electrician with; and b) I knew from the outset that I would be linking more than one goal zero briefcase together. For those who want to link two or more briefcases together, you will also need a 4.7 mm Input 4x Combiner. This allows you to link all of the panels to one cord, which is then connected to the extension cord with the cigarette plug. It all fits very neatly together. Note to others who may wish to do something similar but opt for a different style of Goal Zero panels, not all panels use the same size of extension cords/connectors.
I didn't take any pictures showing how I wired the cigarette plug together, but it was not too bad to do. I suspect the wiring in the solar panels is similar to what is used for stereo equipment. But, I haven't done any wiring of stereo equipment, so don't hold me to that. The very center of the cord is white (with wiring within that) and then there is more stranded wiring between the white wiring and the outer exterior black cord - I hope that makes sense (in other words the white wiring is encased within the black cord). I don't know how to explain it any better than that.
I found varying online information as to whether or not wiring to post selection mattered when using this particular type of wiring. Some suggested it doesn't matter - they are both neutral - whereas others disagreed. I wired the inner (white) wire to the positive and the outer (black) wire to the negative post. I am still here to talk about it and nothing went poof on my trailer, so I must have done something right.
I started out with two Escape 30 briefcases and used them intermittently during a five day camping trip in Jasper with varying light conditions. I was mooching off of my parents during the trip, so I didn't place many electrical demands on the trailer. The panels kept the battery levels in good shape though. I have since added a couple more panels (for a total of 120 watts), but I haven't put them all to the test yet. I hope to do that soon. I won't necessarily use/need all 4 briefcases at all times. I will likely only use all 4 briefcases when I am staying in one spot for a few days or more.
I agree with comments from others that Goal Zero panels are expensive, no doubt about that. I have cut myself off of buying anything else for the Raindrop for a very long time! Certainly the Escape 30 briefcases aren't for everyone, but I selected them in the end because they best fit my personal requirements. They had just better work for a very long time!
For those of you who want to use your solar panels during the winter months (depending where you live/play of course), Goal Zero might not be a good option.
I hope I have answered your question, Joan.
Cheers,
Kelly
Tom Ruggles
Novice
Re: Energy Independence: Goal Zero
Joan --
Just to let the world know I have my male ego in check. I ordered a 100w Renogy panel similar to yours and when it came I realized I didn't have a clue as to how to hook it up to the solar input on the trailer. Then I remembered your tutorial from a couple of months ago that covered this very thing. Followed your suggestions/instructions and it all went together like I knew what I was doing.
Thank you soooo much for posting that.
Joan --
Just to let the world know I have my male ego in check. I ordered a 100w Renogy panel similar to yours and when it came I realized I didn't have a clue as to how to hook it up to the solar input on the trailer. Then I remembered your tutorial from a couple of months ago that covered this very thing. Followed your suggestions/instructions and it all went together like I knew what I was doing.
Thank you soooo much for posting that.
Dahava
Novice
A lot of threads regarding solar panels mention reliability of sellers and warranty information. In case anyone is interested, I got a 100-Watt Monocrystalline Grape PV Solar Panel from Home Depot online for $149.99 (plus free home delivery).
After searching around (probably too much searching, but that's how I roll) the price seemed great for a 100-watt, 36-cell monochrystalline panel. Plus, it doesn't have the built-in charge controller so it will be perfect for our solar option hook-up. Grape is a very reputable solar manufacturer and this panel comes with a 10 year limited product warranty on materials and workmanship, a 25 year warranty on >80% power output and 10 year warranty on >90% power output. Plus, if there are any issues I can deal with my local Home Depot and not some anonymous online company. Seemed like a win all around for me.
So, here's the link if you're interested: 100-Watt Monocrystalline PV Solar Panel for RV's
After searching around (probably too much searching, but that's how I roll) the price seemed great for a 100-watt, 36-cell monochrystalline panel. Plus, it doesn't have the built-in charge controller so it will be perfect for our solar option hook-up. Grape is a very reputable solar manufacturer and this panel comes with a 10 year limited product warranty on materials and workmanship, a 25 year warranty on >80% power output and 10 year warranty on >90% power output. Plus, if there are any issues I can deal with my local Home Depot and not some anonymous online company. Seemed like a win all around for me.
So, here's the link if you're interested: 100-Watt Monocrystalline PV Solar Panel for RV's
Dahava
Novice
Ed-
I think the larger panels perform pretty well (although not optimally) even when not angled/aimed directly toward the sun. That said, I do plan to add on some some fold-away legs for it. The panel frame has some pre-drilled holes on it that I'll be able to attach some simple legs from aluminum stock and some butterfly screws, etc. I have a 25 ft MC4 extension cord and a cable lock so the panel doesn't "grow legs" and walk away. Most times, I think I'll just lean it on the tongue of the trailer and secure it from tipping somehow from a gust of wind.
I think the larger panels perform pretty well (although not optimally) even when not angled/aimed directly toward the sun. That said, I do plan to add on some some fold-away legs for it. The panel frame has some pre-drilled holes on it that I'll be able to attach some simple legs from aluminum stock and some butterfly screws, etc. I have a 25 ft MC4 extension cord and a cable lock so the panel doesn't "grow legs" and walk away. Most times, I think I'll just lean it on the tongue of the trailer and secure it from tipping somehow from a gust of wind.